Muddy Waters - Negro and Solimoes Cocktail

Sentinel in the marshland

Leaving Manaus we made our way into Lake January by motorized canoe from the Negro river.

Egret makes an elegant landing

We were fortunate because water levels had been so low the previous month that access would have been impossible had it not been for recent heavy rains.

The early rains had provided just enough water in the channels for us to observe bird life as we traversed the marshy shoreline.

Tipsy house

Houses built on crude wooden booms sat drunkenly in the shallow waters, in anticipation of the heavy inflows to come.

The rainy season was not far off.

Even though it was not the best season in which to view them, we admired some remaining giant water lilies in the lake - Victoria Amazonica.

Victoria Amazonica

The plants have huge leaves measuring up to six feet across in some cases.

The leaves are also extremely thin and lightweight, floating delicately like a canopy on the water.

Comparing the waters

Heading south on the Rio Negro, we had another opportunity to view the meeting of the waters. 

This particular meeting is significant because the point at which the lighter waters of the Rio Negro meets the muddy waters of the Solimoes marks the official starting point of the Amazon River.


The water from each river runs side by side for several miles before merging - velocity, temperature and pH levels the reason for the phenomenon.

Returning to Manaus all manner of colourful boats swayed lazily up and down in the water, many slung with hammocks for passengers making overnight trips up or down river.  

Manaus fishing boats

Fishers compared notes over the day’s catch, congregating noisily in the nearby fish market.

And then we had a chance sighting of the beautiful pink Amazon dolphin - several were playing in the water near the fishers.  While it was only a brief glimpse, their pink bodies contrasted dramatically with the river water.

And then they were gone.

Teatro Amazonas - Culture in the Jungle

Teatro Amazonas

You know it's there but until you are standing in front of it, its hard to believe your eyes.  

Manaus’s Teatro Amazonas with its golden dome was constructed at the height of the rubber boom in 1882.  

Golden dome sparkles in the sun

This remote town in the middle of the continent was at one time the richest city in the world, sophisticated and cultured. The city is reputed to have had electricity long before many European cities, with street lighting and tram lines.

No expense was spared to make the Opera House, the city's centrepiece, the grandest in the New World. Wrought iron staircases were brought from England, intricate chandeliers from France, marble and Murano glass from Italy.

Inlaid wood flooring in the auditorium

While the floors were fashioned from Brazilian wood, the wood was sent to Europe to be carved and polished.

Standing in the Porte Cochere we allowed our imaginations to run wild briefly as we visualized the horse drawn carriages arriving with Manaus’s wealthy residents, elegantly dressed for a performance at the Opera House.

What a life it must have been for the privileged, that is, until Manaus lost its monopoly on rubber production.

Gilded balconies

When the rubber boom collapsed, Manaus's opulent times came to an abrupt end. The Opera House fell into disrepair and languished. The auditorium was used for storage. Football is said to have been played on the stage!

Over the years many attempts were made to restore the building to its former splendour but it wasn’t until 1990 when work was finally completed.

The royal box

The region’s Governor is reputed to have set aside a substantial amount of money to equip a professional orchestra, choir and ballet school, all this despite the glaring need for infrastructure improvements within the City itself.

Intricate ceilings and chandeliers

We wondered what today's residents of Manaus thought about it all.

There was no way of telling as people rushed this way and that, going about their daily business.

Manaus: City of Past Glories

The good ship "Lima"

Other than a moderate swarm of bees that had taken up residence on the underside of one of the sun loungers, we had arrived in Manaus unscathed from a profusion of insect visitors on our 900 mile cruise up the Amazon River.  The interlopers generally came by night and it was imperative to leave veranda lights off during the evening hours to avoid a deluge of exotica clinging to the windowpanes in the morning.

Stilted houses highlight the Amazon's
low water levels in November

The manufacturing, oil refining and fishing centre of Manaus has an intriguing history - colonized by the Portuguese in the 1600s, its heyday came when the commercial value of latex was discovered and the era of the rubber barons was born. Opulent buildings were constructed with materials imported from the far reaches of the empires of the various colonial powers who arrived in force to take advantage of the economic boom.

Unfortunately the rubber resource was not well managed - trees were planted too close together and the plantations eventually floundered.  Seedlings were smuggled by the British and taken to Kew Gardens in London and eventually transplanted in what is now Singapore and Malaysia where labour and transportation costs were more attractive. We have it on good authority that the 11 original descendant trees stand in Singapore's Botanical Gardens.

After a period of excess and opulence Manaus’s good times were coming to an end and the eventual discovery of synthetic rubber provided the final nail in its coffin.  The rubber boom was over.

Crumbling facades of a glorious past

The fine old buildings of Manaus’s boom times are still evident, notably the famous Opera House.  Many though have been reduced to crumbling facades, some softened by creeping ivy that over the years has used rusting window and door decorations as support.


Wandering through Manaus's main streets we negotiated the disintegrating infrastructure of uneven sidewalks and gaping potholes.  Street vendors occupied either side of the narrow roadways selling everything from fast food to racy underwear while loud music bellowed, horns honked and vehicles belched their emissions.  

Busy street market

In the midst of it all stood the cathedral.  Nearby, a massive paper mache Father Christmas occupied a street corner.   Seasonal music blasted from within its hollow structure, competing with all the street noise. The humidity was palpable despite a healthy breeze and overcast skies.  Santa's heavy red suit and its fur trimmings felt completely out of place.

Fruit drink stand selling
highly caffeinated Guarana 

We negotiated the busy streets, darting between cars, buses and scooters, eventually taking refuge in a vestige from our youth when we lived in the UK - a C+A store. The store’s air conditioning provided welcome relief while our eyebrows raised at the sight of more risque underwear ... there did seem to be a high proportion of undergarments in the store compared to other merchandise on sale!

Tourist police armed with serious weaponry watched the proceedings while military and civil police watched them.  All this was being observed by a kettle of vultures hovering overhead, circling in search of fish abandoned on the shoreline by receding water levels.  The rainy season was about to begin and the stilted buildings and floating docks would soon be put to the test.

No matter, we had plenty of time another day to visit the opulent Opera House with its marble edifice, intricate paintings and chandeliers of Murano glass, all echoing Manaus’s glorious past.

Amazing Amazonas

A chatty Toucan

To say the Amazon rainforest is big doesn’t do it justice.  Two-thirds the size of the United States, the forest stretches over nine South American countries, the largest portion within Brazil.  The Amazon basin provides the largest reservoir of fresh water on Earth and the Amazon River, fed by countless tributaries on its journey from its source in Peru not that far from Machu Picchu to the Atlantic Ocean stretches over a meandering 4000 miles.

The river enters the Atlantic in a massive, fast-flowing estuary - its muddy waters colouring the ocean up to 150 miles beyond the Amazon’s mouth.  During the rainy season vast areas of the rainforest are flooded - the difference in water levels between wet and dry seasons can equal the height of an eight storey building.

A posing Macaw

The Amazon Basin is home to 200 indigenous tribes, over 300 species of mammal, countless species of insects, thousands of freshwater fish, tens of thousands of trees and other plant species.  The more well known animal residents include the jaguar, tapir, sloth, vampire bat, macaw, toucan, leafcutter ant, horned frog, caiman, monkeys, anaconda and the dreaded piranha.  How flora and fauna coexist is truly fascinating - for instance the bromeliad holds water in its overlapping leaves providing a micro ecosystem for insects and tiny frogs. 

Who'll blink first

We had come to this area of natural wonder with little knowledge other than the threat to the rainforest’s future.

Our first experience was the rushing torrent of fresh water racing to the sea, the riverbanks barely visible in the distance. 

"Meeting of the Waters"

After several days cruising up river we reached Santarem, located at the junction of the Tapajos and Amazon rivers.  

Here we experienced a phenomenon caused by temperature, pH levels and velocity:  the meeting of the waters where the blue Rio Tapajos flows side by side with the chocolate coloured Amazon for several miles before blending. 

Flesh eating Pirhana Fish

It was exceedingly hot and the skies darkened quickly producing a thunderous downpour that freshened the air, at least for a while.  Entering Maica Lake we observed life along the riverbank and the fishers who were out in force.  A wonderfully camouflaged iguana made its way down from a tree that hung over the water’s edge.  Landing on the course vegetation below, a tethered horse showed its disdain for the interloper and stamped its hooves.  Meanwhile we extended fishing line and bait in the hopes of snaring a pirhana.  We were successful and surprised by the translucent beauty of the pirhana’s markings - that is until our guide opened its mouth to reveal menacing looking triangular-shaped teeth.  Our observation complete, the pirhana was quickly returned to the water.

Dolphin played in the river, although it was hard to tell whether it was the elusive pink dolphin or the more common grey dolphin.

Enquiring eyes

The next day we called in at the fishing village of Boca da Valeria, home to the Caboclos, descendants of Portuguese settlers who have intermarried with indigenous Indians.  The village is located at the junction of the Valeria River as it enters the Amazon.

Shock of colour

The local children were out in force and the humidity was crushing as we stepped ashore.  The villagers had congregated for our arrival, setting up kiosks with arts and crafts, inviting us into their homes while introducing us to some of the rainforest’s residents. 

The toucan in particular seemed to enjoy the attention.  His yellow, black and orange markings - and startling blue eyes - larger than life.

South To The Islands

Gustavia, St. Barts

You couldn’t pick three Caribbean nations more distinct from one another than St. Barts, St. Lucia and Trinidad.  All three have long histories stemming from the influences of the colonizing powers of the day - France, Britain and Spain - but each has gone its own way.

St. Barts, a  French department with its red-roofed, ocean front homes, expensive shops and busy air strip.  St. Lucia, an island of contrasts with a struggling economy that depends heavily on tourism.  The island is strikingly beautiful with its beaches, mountains, sweeping valleys and rain forest - the holy grail being the Pitons in Soufriere.  And Trinidad - rich in oil and gas, with Port of Spain serving as the retail and administrative centre of the island.

We had been blessed with sunshine throughout our island hopping.  On St Barts we drove around the island enjoying the pretty coastline, returning to Gustavia for a leisurely walk along the waterfront, past expensive yachts and closed storefronts. 


It was Sunday and apparently our potential contribution to the local economy was not particularly sought.  We ended our walk at Shell Beach - an attractive cove with millions of shells forming the beachfront.

Castries, St. Lucia

St. Lucia proved to be a somewhat different experience - vendors offered their wares but didn’t seem to mind if we declined.  Instead they pointed out landmarks and asked us where we were from.

St. Lucia fishing village

The drive from Castries to the rain forest followed a narrow winding road, taking us through fishing villages and banana plantations.  The banana crop has fallen on hard times but some entrepreneur has developed a banana ketchup which has quite a following.  

The Pitons

The Pitons of Soufriere are simply spectacular with the added attraction of a nearby volcano that hasn’t erupted in 300 years.  The smell of sulphur  pervades with the changing breezes.  Water and mud bubble ferociously in the volcanic pools as steam rises from the core.

A perfect day in St. Lucia ended with a catamaran trip from Soufriere back to Castries. A warm tropical downpour cooled the air for a while.

A brief downpour in Soufriere

The island of Trinidad is green and mountainous.  A winding drive from Port of Spain north through the rain forest to Maracas Beach provided a golden opportunity to run into the ocean and jump through the waves. 

Maracas Beach, Trinidad

The force of the waves was unsteadying but the sound of the ocean magic.  As one wave ebbed, the sound of crashing ocean was replaced by a chorus of singing birds.

Shark and Bake with all the fixings

The golden sands felt like silk underfoot and before our return to Port of Spain we partook of the local Trinbagonian delicacy - shark and bake - deep fried shark meat on a bun topped with a multitude of toppings - we tried tamarind and garlic sauce with cilantro. The vendor of choice across from the beach - per the locals - Richard's Shark and Bake Shack.


Returning to Port of Spain it was evident that Trinidad’s passion for cricket is alive and well with large grounds in the centre of town. The site is well positioned for cricket enthusiasts at the British Consulate too - the top floor of the Consular building apparently overlooks the grounds.

We had come south to the islands and would now head further south to Brazil and the mouth of the Amazon River.

Bermuda Short

If the current state of the world economy has affected Bermuda its hard to tell by the elegant homes, manicured lawns and yachts that greeted us as we sailed into Hamilton.



We docked in the centre of town at Front Street, an area of well-patronized shops and restaurants - even a Marks and Spencer.  With most goods imported from the UK and Ireland, prices are high.  That coupled with a median house price of $1 Million and gas selling for $9 a gallon, Bermuda is an expensive place to live.

Hamilton Waterfront Home

Walking through the main shopping area vehicle traffic moved efficiently - a mixture of compact cars and trucks and a veritable sea of scooters.

A small bus depot in the heart of town disgorges its blue and pink buses to all parts of the island - the bus service does well since residents are only allowed to own one car, but as many scooters as they like. 

And then I spotted my first one:  a businessman in Bermuda shorts with long socks to the knee and of course jacket, crisp shirt and tie.  He carried a briefcase, wore a smart hat and obviously had places to go.

Trooping the Colour on Front Street

Hamilton’s very existence stems from Bermuda’s privateering history. The island's reefs caused the demise of many a sailing vessel bound for the New World.  The booty rescued from shipwrecks was redistributed by privateers who agreed to pay the appropriate taxes to the authorities for their haul.  However, Bermuda’s original capital of St. George’s was just too far away for the powers of the day to collect the taxes from what in effect was sanctioned piracy.  So the capital moved to Hamilton.

St. Peter's Church

Hamilton is a smart little town that bustles with activity, but the jewel of the island in St. George’s.  Founded in 1612 and the oldest continuously inhabited England settlement in the Western hemisphere, St. George‘s is reminiscent of a Cornish seaside town with its pretty church of St Peter’s and attractive buildings. St. George’s is a community of colourful cottages awash in pastel colours.  All bear the same ridged rooflines covered with white limestone designed to reflect the heat but most importantly to collect rainwater.  There are no rivers or streams on Bermuda. 

As we examined the well-worn headstones in St. Peter’s graveyard, the Minister, looking sporty in his Bermuda shorts passed us and wished us a pleasant good morning.   The headstones do an effective job of telling the island’s past, the graveyard the final resting place for the rich and powerful as well as slaves and privateers. 

Ceremonial Stocks

St. George’s winding cobble-stoned streets and alleys converge into the main square where ceremonial stocks and a ducking stool serve as a reminder of how punishment was once meted out to non-compliant citizens.

Driving south west from St. George’s to Tucker's Town one realizes what real money can lease. 

On St. George's Waterfront

Despite the fact that many of the homes cost upward of $20 Million, there are strict residency laws in Bermuda and a 99 year lease is the best an offshore billionaire can do.  The ranks of Tucker's Town’s well-known residents include international politicians, movie stars and sporting celebrities.  The community’s golf course is immense and pristine even though roosters and chickens roam the greens at will, disinterested in the cost of the high-priced grass they are scratching through.

 Hamilton Waterfront Home

Bermudans value tourist trade - after all with no income tax visitors provide healthy tax revenues to the Island.

Everyone we met was friendly and helpful - when we couldn’t find a public washroom in St George’s, the local postmistress beckoned us into her office to use the post office’s facilities.  Stepping over unopened mailbags we thanked her profusely.

As the ship slipped its moorings from Hamilton’s Front Street at the end of our stay, three scantily clad teenage girls waved frantically as we pulled away.  They shouted “we hope you had a good time!” 

We had.

A Small Bite Of The Big Apple

Liberty Island

Sitting in that small triangular-shaped park in Greenwich Village flanked by sidewalk cafes, the movie crew worked on their umpteenth take. The central characters, a couple, began their walk in animated conversation past a packed bagel deli where we had bought our lunch. We sat on a well-worn park bench in the sunshine enjoying a deliciously over-stuffed bagel watching the goings on.

The movie crew managed the hordes of curious onlookers politely - something we were bemused by.  After all we were in New York City, a place of the fast moving and fast talking.  Folks who don’t suffer fools gladly.  Admittedly there were times on the subway earlier in the day when we had felt scrutinizing eyes upon us briefly no doubt giving us a New York once-over.  Another myth dispelled though, during our stay we had found everyone to be good humoured and friendly.  

Even the Wall Street  protesters, a small group of whom passed the park waving their hand-painted slogans, some of which were very cleverly written, yelled good humouredly "don’t just sit there, join us, we can’t do this without you".  And then they were gone.  The movie crew resumed their positions for yet another take.

Good humoured cops on Wall Street

The bagel consumed, we continued our walk through lower Manhattan which had started at Trinity Church on the corner of Wall and Broadway that morning. The subway had taken us to the meeting point in no time. We were early so had ventured down Wall Street to the New York Stock Exchange, now heavily protected by New York’s finest. In nearby Zuccotti Park, the Wall Street protesters were causing a stir. One of their number had climbed a metal structure and was threatening some further action. Below a hostage negotiating team, paramedics and dozens of policemen watched and waited.  Mobile TV crews filmed the proceedings and we found ourselves joining the gawping onlookers.

The Sphere, Battery Park

Our walking tour had begun with a walk to Battery Park and Castle Clinton.  We passed a badly damaged bronze sculpture in the park that had survived the attacks on the twin towers. "The Sphere" had formerly stood between the World Trade towers.  It was recovered from the rubble and temporarily relocated to Battery Park.

Manhattan from Liberty Island

The rising Freedom Tower stands like a beacon beyond the sculpture and its hard to imagine that One World Trade Centre is only half way to its final elevation of 1776 feet, the symbolic height that will match the date of the Declaration of Independence, 4 July 1776.

The Lady with the Lamp

Walking out to the edge of Manhattan, Ellis and Liberty Islands sparkled in the bright morning sunlight.  We learned how Lady Liberty arrived from France but had remained in packing cases for quite some time until Joseph Pulitzer asked New Yorkers to donate what their could for her raising - the prize - each contributor's name published on the front page of the Daily News.  It worked - the Statue was finally erected 125 years ago and celebrated with the first ticker tape parade.

Young Arrivals
Ellis Island Photograph

Walking through Chinatown, SoHo and Little Italy set the scene for the following day’s visit to Ellis Island and the poignant stories of those in search of a better life in America.

As we ventured north to Midtown, we took in the various architectural styles of the “cathedrals to capitalism”.  How ironic that F.W. Woolworth who had made his fortune on five and dime stores, paid cash for his magnificent new building.  Grand Central Station, yet another iconic building almost lost but for the efforts of Jacqueline Kennedy.  The restored interior is eye popping.

"Top of the Rock"

"Top of the Rock"

Not to mention a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, a fast elevator ride to the top of Rockefeller Centre, a peek inside the Chrysler Building, a few quiet moments in St. Patrick's Cathedral, the buzz of a Broadway show and Times Square, a romantic Italian dinner, a subway ride to Central Park to wander through Strawberry Fields and gawk at John Lennon’s Dakota home ..... 

Despite our barking feet we had run out of time. It had been just one small bite of the big apple.

New York, New York, wow!