Muddy Waters - Negro and Solimoes Cocktail

Sentinel in the marshland

Leaving Manaus we made our way into Lake January by motorized canoe from the Negro river.

Egret makes an elegant landing

We were fortunate because water levels had been so low the previous month that access would have been impossible had it not been for recent heavy rains.

The early rains had provided just enough water in the channels for us to observe bird life as we traversed the marshy shoreline.

Tipsy house

Houses built on crude wooden booms sat drunkenly in the shallow waters, in anticipation of the heavy inflows to come.

The rainy season was not far off.

Even though it was not the best season in which to view them, we admired some remaining giant water lilies in the lake - Victoria Amazonica.

Victoria Amazonica

The plants have huge leaves measuring up to six feet across in some cases.

The leaves are also extremely thin and lightweight, floating delicately like a canopy on the water.

Comparing the waters

Heading south on the Rio Negro, we had another opportunity to view the meeting of the waters. 

This particular meeting is significant because the point at which the lighter waters of the Rio Negro meets the muddy waters of the Solimoes marks the official starting point of the Amazon River.


The water from each river runs side by side for several miles before merging - velocity, temperature and pH levels the reason for the phenomenon.

Returning to Manaus all manner of colourful boats swayed lazily up and down in the water, many slung with hammocks for passengers making overnight trips up or down river.  

Manaus fishing boats

Fishers compared notes over the day’s catch, congregating noisily in the nearby fish market.

And then we had a chance sighting of the beautiful pink Amazon dolphin - several were playing in the water near the fishers.  While it was only a brief glimpse, their pink bodies contrasted dramatically with the river water.

And then they were gone.