Olinda, Oh My

Some of Olinda's colonial heritage

Years ago we had visited Recife, the capital of Brazil’s Pernambuco State on the “bump” of Brazil. 

The highlight that day had been our time meandering the cobblestone streets in the nearby colonial town of Olinda. 

Colourful adornments
to the clay tiled rooftops

Olinda, founded by the Portuguese in the 16^th century, is a study in attractive architecture and a profusion of red clay rooftops.  Nestled on the hillside, there are striking views over the town, Recife and the ocean beyond. 

Olinda's Cathedral

Since our first visit, Olinda has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.  This designation required the State to first renovate and clean up what had become a crumbling epitaph to a glorious past. 

Now returning, we barely recognized Recife, a growing city that sprawls up and out from its three rivers and 49 connecting bridges. It even sports the moniker “Brazil’s Venice”.

Recife itself is an important commercial centre and port although its sagging infrastructure underscores the cost of progress.  Despite various public works projects that appeared to be underway as well as construction of a new stadium to host 2014 World Cup soccer a monumental amount of work is required. 

200 year old Baobab tree
in Recife's central square

Recife’s colonial buildings have not been looked after, the central square is crowned by a non-functioning fountain set in a pool of stagnant water.  A 200 year old Baobab tree stands majestically in the square but seems out of place in the company of the disintegrating architecture.  The Venice of Brazil, I think not.

"Tarted up" colonial Olinda

Sadly, Olinda seems to have been frozen in time, held hostage by the touts laden with cheap souvenirs that pursued potential customers everywhere, even into the cathedral.  The old customs house has been reinvented as a crafts market.  All the hawking activity took away from the real star of the show. 

Taking a few steps away from the melee of tourism we scanned the view - and using a little bit of imagination - there it was, a mirror into the past.  Olinda, the beautiful.