A study in contrasts

Picturesque Ilha Grande
set in the Atlantic rainforest

About a 100 miles south of Rio de Janiero the atmosphere changes:  gone are the rigors of incessant traffic and big city chaos - this is the place of golden beaches and pristine Atlantic rainforest. The island of Ilha Grande is a perfect example with its limited tourist infrastructure.

Sleepy Porto Belo surrounded
by communities of holiday homes

Further south in Brazil’s Santa Catarina state, Porto Belo has the feel of a fishing village but the surrounding landscape is one of tower blocks of holiday condos.  German immigrants once worked the land, farming sugar cane, rice and wheat.  

Today tourism fuels the economy bringing chaos to the underdeveloped infrastructure during the high season.

Impromptu welcome at
Cathedral Sao Pedro

Rio Grande de Sul is Brazil’s most southerly state and the city of Rio Grande is a busy port set in an impressive lagoon.  Its history was heavily influenced by the Jesuits and the Portuguese.  

While the city centre is dilapidated and badly in need of repair, a visit to Cathedral Sao Pedro lifted our spirits considerably.  The Father welcomed us inside his church, asked us where we were from, blessed us and continued on with the Mass he was in the middle of conducting.

Ralli Museum of Contemporary Art

In complete contrast is Uruguay’s Punta del Este,“the St. Tropez of South America”.  In fact with its gorgeous beaches, countless upscale apartments, flashy homes and eclectic restaurants it’s a world apart.  

The privately owned Ralli Museum of Contemporary Art located in the fashionable Beverly Hills neighbourhood has an impressive collection of paintings and sculptures by some of Latin America’s most talented artists as well as works by Dali and Chagall.

  

Exploring the nooks and crannies
of Casa Pueblo

Casa Pueblo perched atop Punta Ballena provides stunning views over Rio de la Plata.  Created by painter and sculptor Carlos Paez Vilaro, the unusual building which took 36 years to complete has the look and feel of something created by Gaudi.

About half of Uruguay’s population lives in the capital city of Montevideo, two hours away from Punta del Este.  The city’s architecture is testament to its colonial past although many buildings are desperately in need of refurbishment.   

Mercado del Puerto parrillas

However at Mercado del Puerto we found ourselves in a restored building of vaulted iron beams and coloured glass - urban renewal at its best.  

The market houses a number of stalls and eateries where over large fires parrillas (sausage and grilled beef of various cuts) are barbequed with red peppers, potatoes and other colourful vegetables.  The aroma of cooking meat blending with the smokey wood fires created a compelling atmosphere.

A study in contrasts indeed.