Amazing Amazonas

A chatty Toucan

To say the Amazon rainforest is big doesn’t do it justice.  Two-thirds the size of the United States, the forest stretches over nine South American countries, the largest portion within Brazil.  The Amazon basin provides the largest reservoir of fresh water on Earth and the Amazon River, fed by countless tributaries on its journey from its source in Peru not that far from Machu Picchu to the Atlantic Ocean stretches over a meandering 4000 miles.

The river enters the Atlantic in a massive, fast-flowing estuary - its muddy waters colouring the ocean up to 150 miles beyond the Amazon’s mouth.  During the rainy season vast areas of the rainforest are flooded - the difference in water levels between wet and dry seasons can equal the height of an eight storey building.

A posing Macaw

The Amazon Basin is home to 200 indigenous tribes, over 300 species of mammal, countless species of insects, thousands of freshwater fish, tens of thousands of trees and other plant species.  The more well known animal residents include the jaguar, tapir, sloth, vampire bat, macaw, toucan, leafcutter ant, horned frog, caiman, monkeys, anaconda and the dreaded piranha.  How flora and fauna coexist is truly fascinating - for instance the bromeliad holds water in its overlapping leaves providing a micro ecosystem for insects and tiny frogs. 

Who'll blink first

We had come to this area of natural wonder with little knowledge other than the threat to the rainforest’s future.

Our first experience was the rushing torrent of fresh water racing to the sea, the riverbanks barely visible in the distance. 

"Meeting of the Waters"

After several days cruising up river we reached Santarem, located at the junction of the Tapajos and Amazon rivers.  

Here we experienced a phenomenon caused by temperature, pH levels and velocity:  the meeting of the waters where the blue Rio Tapajos flows side by side with the chocolate coloured Amazon for several miles before blending. 

Flesh eating Pirhana Fish

It was exceedingly hot and the skies darkened quickly producing a thunderous downpour that freshened the air, at least for a while.  Entering Maica Lake we observed life along the riverbank and the fishers who were out in force.  A wonderfully camouflaged iguana made its way down from a tree that hung over the water’s edge.  Landing on the course vegetation below, a tethered horse showed its disdain for the interloper and stamped its hooves.  Meanwhile we extended fishing line and bait in the hopes of snaring a pirhana.  We were successful and surprised by the translucent beauty of the pirhana’s markings - that is until our guide opened its mouth to reveal menacing looking triangular-shaped teeth.  Our observation complete, the pirhana was quickly returned to the water.

Dolphin played in the river, although it was hard to tell whether it was the elusive pink dolphin or the more common grey dolphin.

Enquiring eyes

The next day we called in at the fishing village of Boca da Valeria, home to the Caboclos, descendants of Portuguese settlers who have intermarried with indigenous Indians.  The village is located at the junction of the Valeria River as it enters the Amazon.

Shock of colour

The local children were out in force and the humidity was crushing as we stepped ashore.  The villagers had congregated for our arrival, setting up kiosks with arts and crafts, inviting us into their homes while introducing us to some of the rainforest’s residents. 

The toucan in particular seemed to enjoy the attention.  His yellow, black and orange markings - and startling blue eyes - larger than life.