Siena and San Gimignano - Golden Moments

It had been 18 years since I had walked in awe of the medieval buildings of Siena - today, as then, the city felt untouched by time - yet somehow thriving in a bustling confluence of residents and visitors. The bakeries, gelaterias and coffee shops were brimming with patrons, the hustle and bustle of the crowded, narrow walkways adding to the atmosphere.

The October sun slowly travelled its way across the buildings making “burnt Siena” the colour of the moment. All augmented by the ironwork, coloured shutters, flower boxes and gargoyles of the town’s architecture - and of course Siena's magnificent unfinished cathedral.

Piazza del Campo, site of the biannual horserace and the central part of the city was full of people enjoying the sunshine and watching the comings and goings in the piazza’s cafes and restaurants.

The surrounding Tuscan countryside was picture perfect - gently sloping hills scattered with vineyards, olive groves, cypress trees, farmlands and winding roads. The red clay roofs of the farmhouses and the yellow hues from the buildings’ walls positively glowing in the sunlight.

This couldn’t have been more so when we viewed the landscape from the walled hilltop village of San Gimignano. A golden glaze bathed the countryside in the late afternoon sun, church bells rang in the distance and we thought how wonderful to have shared those moments in time.

Portovenere – Not Quite Cinque Terre

As luck would have it Cinque Terre was not approachable by sea because of strong winds.

We were disappointed but the nearby UNESCO World Heritage site of Portovenere, with a more sheltered harbor, provided an unexpected and pleasant alternative.

Sailing from La Spezia to Portovenere, multicoloured homes lined the hillside, giving way to impressive naval facilities. Turning the headland, the village of Portovenere with its castle and churches was a sight to behold.

One only had to imagine medieval times and life in this fortress village under ownership of the state of Genoa, its tall, sloping, colourful buildings - themselves acting as fortifications against regular marauders from lands held by the state of Pisa across the bay.

Its violent history in the past, today the village is considered less commercialized than its sister villages of Cinque Terre. The buildings are mostly occupied by locals whose families have lived there for generations, who are either farmers, fishers or workers in nearby La Spezia.

Stepping ashore we were greeted by fat felines who meandered aimlessly in the village square stopping periodically to roll lazily on the cobblestones that had been warming in the morning sun.

Stores along the main street welcomed us within to sample mouth watering pesto, tastings of olive oil and focaccia. A hole in the wall café along the way provided a fabulous view over the harbour from a small balcony while we enjoyed morning cappuccino.

The olive oil, the focaccia, the pesto and the cappuccino – now that’s Italian!

And we seem to be assimilating rather nicely.

Monte Carlo and Saint-Paul de Vance – Two Worlds

An hour’s drive from Monte Carlo in Monaco lies the medieval hilltop village of Saint-Paul de Vance in France.

With its Roman walls intact, Saint-Paul has endured remarkably well over its long history.

The narrow, winding, cobbled walkways snake their way through the village to the church of Saint-Paul and after the climb you are rewarded with stunning views over the Cote D’Azur and the Alps.

In its more recent history, Saint-Paul became a haven for artists with the village and its surrounding landscapes providing inspiration to the likes of Marc Chagall and his contemporaries – in fact Chagall is buried in the village churchyard.

Popular with visitors, the village is predominated by elegant art and antique shops as well as holiday rental homes but its ancient buildings are unspoiled by modern day trends.

Back in Monte Carlo we looked out over the Principality's unquestionably beautiful harbour and the concrete jungle of overpriced apartments crammed into every available inch of land. The green domes of the Casino – Monaco’s hallmark - appeared to have a defiant look. Who are you people it seemed to say.

In spite of the Bentleys, Ferraris and Aston Martins vying for position in Casino Square, the high priced real estate and the rarefied air taken in by the Monegasques, one unfortunate conclusion remained that day. No deep inhaling of that sea air recommended outside the Casino - the drains were making their presence felt. How awful for those poor people!

Portofino - La Dolce Vita

Portofino was eye popping in the early morning as the sun’s rays streamed across the multi-coloured buildings.

In times gone by fisherman painted their dwellings in bright colours so that they could identify their homes from the sea and be assured that all was well as they approached port. Today Portofino typifies lifestyles of the rich and famous on the Cote d’Azur.

As our tender approached the dock, a hodge podge of brightly coloured boats came into view, bobbing lazily in the harbour. The early morning sunshine created a luminescence over the water that seemed to dance in the swell. The town’s square was flanked with open air restaurants, temporarily empty of customers because of the hour.

Our adventure took us up to a steep cobbled walkway that followed the coastline out to a lighthouse on the point.

On the way we dodged the odd vehicle as we passed the heavily secured gates to mansions owned by the very wealthy - anonymous to our curious eyes. An aristocratic short-haired tabby strutted past us in indignation at the intrusion into his territory, his eyes fixed defiantly ahead.

In spite of Portofino’s buildings seeming to be a façade devoid of everyday life, somehow protecting the lives of those who can afford to live there, the colour palate that morning surpassed any picture. It was magic.

Busman's Holiday

A Busman's Holiday is defined as "A vacation during which one engages in activity similar to one's usual work".

We had our May train outing booked months ago in the long dark days of December when sunshine comes at a premium to Vancouver's dreary winter skies. The end of May would be sunny and warm and the longer hours of daylight would assure us views at their springtime best through our train seat's window.

As fortune would have it, spring in Vancouver had been cool and wet, but the weather did not dampen our spirits as heavy rain clouds hung over the city on the morning we took the Whistler Mountaineer. If anything, the ethereal aura the cloudiness created had the effect of deepening the colour and enhancing the vibrancy of the foliage in the treeline during the three hour trip from North Vancouver to Whistler.

The train company's dispatch had been efficient and friendly, and the train's on-board attendants impressed us with their knowledge and service, never missing a beat when it was time to point out something of interest, even though they were in the midst of meal service.

As part-time tour guides ourselves, it was music to our ears. During the usual commentary one offers on a day trip between Vancouver and Whistler you quickly learn that timing is everything: seeing is believing. There is no point whatsoever talking about the scenic village of Horseshoe Bay when its no longer visible from the newly improved Sea to Sky Highway.

And how often I would wax poetic at the view from the bus as we drove along the highway through the Cheakamus Canyon. The winding river, white with foam as it bubbled and tumbled over the stony river bed.

Through the bus window looking down over the river, the rail line seemed to cling to the riverbank during that segment of its journey and I would exclaim to all on my bus that next time they returned to Vancouver they really must take the train up to Whistler.

And here we were enjoying that same view from our seats on board the train looking out on the Cheakamus River - and the highway beyond it.

After our arrival in Whistler we had a few hours to spend before the return trip. We decided to take the Peak to Peak Gondola, the highest of its kind in the world, with the longest unsupported span over the valley between Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains.

The weather remained uncooperative but it didn't deter our enjoyment of it as the cars ahead of us disappeared into the cloud, reappearing as if from nowhere. We were amazed at the engineering feat of the gondola itself - its height and endless views. And not to be missed, the glass bottomed cars, which revealed greenery as if in miniature through a metalic picture frame.

The return train trip to Vancouver was very enjoyable - complete with afternoon tea. The improving weather allowed us time to enjoy the views over Howe Sound outdoors in the vintage rail car.

What a glorious day - and what a bonus for those of us who sometimes guide to be able to pick up a few tips from those who guided us!

Islands In The Sun

BARBADOS
After a calm Atlantic crossing from West Africa, we reached our first Caribbean port of Barbados. We were looking forward to taking to the azure waters and were not disappointed, first snorkeling with turtles who swam like flat bottomed submarines towards us, brushing against us in search of food. Admittedly, we outnumbered the turtles, but later on that afternoon we relaxed in the tranquility of the pristine water. Lying on our backs, the salty water kept us buoyed. The sky was hanging with cumulus clouds and the lush vegetation beyond the beach was alive with the chatter of birds. Magic.

The following day we sailed past Guadeloupe, its headlands dotted with a chorus line of wind turbines. It was early morning, our usual walk on deck underway. On the opposite side of the ship there was a sudden splash in the water. Often when a wave crests you hope it is a creature from below breaking the surface. In most cases it isn't but today we were all delighted to see a humpback whale flash its tail above the waves then dive back down to resurface a few minutes later.

ANTIGUA
Docking in Antigua was a bit of a surprise - the busy shoreside now dotted with duty free shops hawking Columbian emeralds and Island rum bore no resemblance to the place we remembered on our last visit - but that was 20 years ago. No matter, today we were going to the rain forest to zip line over the exotic forest canopy.

After a bumpy ride through the countryside we reached our destination. Eventually - we were most definitely on Island time - we were kitted out in harnesses, carabenas, ropes, helmets and gloves. And then we proceeded across a rickety suspension bridge to the first jumping off point.

The definition of "vulnerable" can best be described as hanging from a steel wire, forest stretching out below, as a delightful Island girl clicks this and hooks that and says "OK darling, off you go". I shrieked a WHOOEEEEEE as I flew across the tree tops to be caught at the next station by a handsome Island boy with long dreadlocks who called me "sweetie".

This was one of nine such zips.

It was hot, we sweated profusely, but we loved every minute. Except of course for the final maneuver which involved walking off "the leap of faith" platform to free-fall into a 25 foot drop to someone below who didn't really seem to be very motivated to make sure we landed safely.

This I thought would likely void our waivers, the language of which was interesting ....

I am however here to tell the tale, pictures in hand and somewhat gratified to know that our next stop will be in Tortola - the hunting ground of Captain Jack Sparrow. But instead of jumping off platforms into rainforest, we will be leaping into the ocean from a catamaran - can't wait.

TORTOLA
The reading materials describe the British Virgin Islands as serene, seductive and spectacularly beautiful. Sailing in on Sunday morning the views on all sides of the ship lived up to their billing. The numerous islands that make up the chain - Tortola being the largest - are striking with steep green hills.

We boarded our catamaran and within minutes the trade winds had picked up the sails and we were off to our destination about 45 minutes away. We sat with our legs dangling off the cat, the soles of our feet occasionally kissed by the waves. The ocean, which reflected the sun, had a platinum look to it.

Our snorkeling destination for the morning was a feast for the eyes. Turquoise water lapped against a rocky enclave.

The fish swam amongst us as though we were invisible - colourful sylph-like creatures striped with yellow, silver, purple and blue. We motored on to our beach destination, continuing our new-found pastime of simply floating on our backs in the warm, salty water.

TURKS AND CAICOS
The Turks and Caicos Islands were in sharp contrast to the dramatic hillsides of Tortola. Grand Turk, its capital, is located on the biggest island which is just seven miles long and one mile wide. While the islands have the look of a sandbar, what is striking is the colour. White sandy beaches and sparkling neon turquoise water.

Today we set off on another catamaran trip to snorkel. We reached a coral reef which fell away sharply into deeper water, providing a dramatic contrast in colour as we splashed about. The most common fish, yellow fin snaps, their silver bodies and bright yellow markings appeared luminescent as they darted about, framed against the deep blue water beyond the reef.

The colour palate was perfect. Later that afternoon under full sail we docked at a sandy beach to swim. Its hard to explain the thrill of walking down the catamaran's narrow ladder into the ocean. It was as though we were stepping into an underwater screensaver with a sparkling emerald and azure backdrop.

I told our companions that we have water this colour in British Columbia - the only problem is it is glacial. Pondering that thought, we continued to float in the water as it lapped over our bodies.

Now THIS Is Cruising

Over the last number of years we've cruised a lot, always picking the itinerary as the first criteria. Our favourite cruise of all time was on the long gone "Song of Flower" which took us from Bombay through the Suez Canal to Athens.

It had been such a memorable trip, not because the ship was particularly beautiful, more because of the level of service on board, the ports of call and the people we met.

Fourteen years later on board Seven Seas Voyager we recaptured some of that magic on a 27 night cruise from Cape Town to Fort Lauderdale, the final leg of the ship's world cruise. It was Day 19 and we were enjoying lunch in the Compass Rose looking out over a calm sea. The horizon seemed to flat line against the sky in a deep navy line, the waves no more than casual swells, periodically tipped by a white cap or two and schools of flying fish.

In true form, the itinerary had been the main appeal and even though we knew the joys of Song of Flower were in the distant past, we were thrilled with this shipboard experience - service excellence, varied dining and entertainment options as well as interesting fellow passengers.

On Day 2 we happened to sit near a table of ladies who had joined the ship in San Diego over a 100 days earlier for the world cruise in its entirety. Unified in their disdain of how awful the airlines had become and how packing was going to be a chore, they comforted themselves in the knowledge that the ship would be sending their luggage home freight. Hold that thought --- we were just beginning our adventure, and what an adventure it was going to be.

The on-board experience - where to begin.

The James Bond evening was a blast. A large 007 ice sculpture decorated with martini glasses, champagne and caviar, Bond movies playing, theme songs belted out by singers dressed like the great man himself and a trivia contest which we shamelessly won hands down.

Trivia games on board cruise ships are a tradition but its mood varies from a mildly competitive team spirit to virtual hand-to-hand combat over the holy grail - a key chain or a bookmark the sought-after prize. Or in this case, the elusive Regent travel clock, which disappointingly turned out to be a shipboard myth.

While everyone likes to win trivia, the friendships formed are the best prize of all. In our case a six-member team called the Tri-Nations because it comprised Americans, Australians and Canadians. Five wins under our belt, hats and bookmarks all round. And did you know Charlotte that a porcupine does not actually throw its quills?

Dinner under the stars in Namibia, when everyone on board was driven out into the desert for dining and entertainment. On our return to the quay a large number of the ship's complement formed a boisterous line on either side of a red carpet to welcome us back on board while the band played and the champagne flowed - shades of the Song of Flower all those years ago in Safaga.

Dinner in Le Veranda always a treat, but the highlight for us one evening was a candlelit, linen covered table on a small deck outside the main restaurant. It was as though we were on our own private yacht. Another night, the restaurant was transformed into Don Vito's Trattoria and filled with singing and dancing.

Dinner and a Show - where a small group of passengers dine in Signatures, one of the speciality restaurants, followed by intimate cabaret-style entertainment in an adjoining lounge.

The atmosphere, as well as the steaks and lamb of Prime 7, another speciality restaurant, complimented by excellent wines - and actually way too much of them - was first class.

Yesterday, the Compass Rose galley put on an eye-popping display. We have gone "behind the scenes" many times on past cruises and enjoyed imaginative, colourful buffets. But this one set the bar even higher. As we passed through the galley we enjoyed the displays of food and wine but the common thread was the smiles on the faces of the staff, who seemed genuinely pleased to welcome passengers into their back yard.

We were particularly pleased to meet the chef who had prepared a special off-menu Indian dinner which had been served in our stateroom after our day in The Gambia. Samosas, chicken tandoori, naan and mango chutney with a beautiful dessert made from carrots cooked in milk with cardamom were only part of the menu.

That particular evening we had returned from our day in The Gambia, dusty and tired, negotiating our way through the crowds on the pier who were vying for last minute souvenirs in the makeshift market. We found serenity in our stateroom thanks to Charlie and Victor. The curtains had been drawn, the table laid with linens, silverware and crystal and the bed turned down early so that we would not be disturbed.

That evening Charlie served our meal course by course and what a joy to have our dessert with what was left of the Wild Rock Sauvignon Blanc (our new favourite) on the stateroom balcony as the ship pulled out of port.

The enrichment lectures have been particularly good - who knew the fate of the double humped camel, that Tosca was the operatic equivalent of "the Scottish play" and that China's influence in South America is as prevalent as it has become in Africa.

Our daily ritual of walking the decks for three miles before breakfast has continued, despite the soaring temperatures. Even though we have been enjoying a few 25 hour days as we gain time sailing west to the Caribbean, the sun is high in the sky at 6:30 a.m. After three sweltering miles, what better than fresh juice produced from the poolside juicer - you choose the fruit and vegetables (and fresh ginger when they have it), and the staff produce a healthy refresher.

What a joy to see new parts of the world and meet new friends - and in such style and comfort.