Now THIS Is Cruising

Over the last number of years we've cruised a lot, always picking the itinerary as the first criteria. Our favourite cruise of all time was on the long gone "Song of Flower" which took us from Bombay through the Suez Canal to Athens.

It had been such a memorable trip, not because the ship was particularly beautiful, more because of the level of service on board, the ports of call and the people we met.

Fourteen years later on board Seven Seas Voyager we recaptured some of that magic on a 27 night cruise from Cape Town to Fort Lauderdale, the final leg of the ship's world cruise. It was Day 19 and we were enjoying lunch in the Compass Rose looking out over a calm sea. The horizon seemed to flat line against the sky in a deep navy line, the waves no more than casual swells, periodically tipped by a white cap or two and schools of flying fish.

In true form, the itinerary had been the main appeal and even though we knew the joys of Song of Flower were in the distant past, we were thrilled with this shipboard experience - service excellence, varied dining and entertainment options as well as interesting fellow passengers.

On Day 2 we happened to sit near a table of ladies who had joined the ship in San Diego over a 100 days earlier for the world cruise in its entirety. Unified in their disdain of how awful the airlines had become and how packing was going to be a chore, they comforted themselves in the knowledge that the ship would be sending their luggage home freight. Hold that thought --- we were just beginning our adventure, and what an adventure it was going to be.

The on-board experience - where to begin.

The James Bond evening was a blast. A large 007 ice sculpture decorated with martini glasses, champagne and caviar, Bond movies playing, theme songs belted out by singers dressed like the great man himself and a trivia contest which we shamelessly won hands down.

Trivia games on board cruise ships are a tradition but its mood varies from a mildly competitive team spirit to virtual hand-to-hand combat over the holy grail - a key chain or a bookmark the sought-after prize. Or in this case, the elusive Regent travel clock, which disappointingly turned out to be a shipboard myth.

While everyone likes to win trivia, the friendships formed are the best prize of all. In our case a six-member team called the Tri-Nations because it comprised Americans, Australians and Canadians. Five wins under our belt, hats and bookmarks all round. And did you know Charlotte that a porcupine does not actually throw its quills?

Dinner under the stars in Namibia, when everyone on board was driven out into the desert for dining and entertainment. On our return to the quay a large number of the ship's complement formed a boisterous line on either side of a red carpet to welcome us back on board while the band played and the champagne flowed - shades of the Song of Flower all those years ago in Safaga.

Dinner in Le Veranda always a treat, but the highlight for us one evening was a candlelit, linen covered table on a small deck outside the main restaurant. It was as though we were on our own private yacht. Another night, the restaurant was transformed into Don Vito's Trattoria and filled with singing and dancing.

Dinner and a Show - where a small group of passengers dine in Signatures, one of the speciality restaurants, followed by intimate cabaret-style entertainment in an adjoining lounge.

The atmosphere, as well as the steaks and lamb of Prime 7, another speciality restaurant, complimented by excellent wines - and actually way too much of them - was first class.

Yesterday, the Compass Rose galley put on an eye-popping display. We have gone "behind the scenes" many times on past cruises and enjoyed imaginative, colourful buffets. But this one set the bar even higher. As we passed through the galley we enjoyed the displays of food and wine but the common thread was the smiles on the faces of the staff, who seemed genuinely pleased to welcome passengers into their back yard.

We were particularly pleased to meet the chef who had prepared a special off-menu Indian dinner which had been served in our stateroom after our day in The Gambia. Samosas, chicken tandoori, naan and mango chutney with a beautiful dessert made from carrots cooked in milk with cardamom were only part of the menu.

That particular evening we had returned from our day in The Gambia, dusty and tired, negotiating our way through the crowds on the pier who were vying for last minute souvenirs in the makeshift market. We found serenity in our stateroom thanks to Charlie and Victor. The curtains had been drawn, the table laid with linens, silverware and crystal and the bed turned down early so that we would not be disturbed.

That evening Charlie served our meal course by course and what a joy to have our dessert with what was left of the Wild Rock Sauvignon Blanc (our new favourite) on the stateroom balcony as the ship pulled out of port.

The enrichment lectures have been particularly good - who knew the fate of the double humped camel, that Tosca was the operatic equivalent of "the Scottish play" and that China's influence in South America is as prevalent as it has become in Africa.

Our daily ritual of walking the decks for three miles before breakfast has continued, despite the soaring temperatures. Even though we have been enjoying a few 25 hour days as we gain time sailing west to the Caribbean, the sun is high in the sky at 6:30 a.m. After three sweltering miles, what better than fresh juice produced from the poolside juicer - you choose the fruit and vegetables (and fresh ginger when they have it), and the staff produce a healthy refresher.

What a joy to see new parts of the world and meet new friends - and in such style and comfort.