Holi in the Pink City

The Hindu festival of Holi is a time of happiness and anticipation for Spring and the coming harvest.  For hundreds of years the festival has been celebrated by the throwing of coloured dyes. 

Fresco from Kota Palace illustrating the
Maharajahs enjoying Holi with "the common man" 

In times past this practice embodied a sort of equality - if a shower of purple or yellow dye was coming your way it would cover you and everyone around you irrespective of caste or position in life. 

Holi was in full swing when we left Ranthambhore at 4:00 a.m. for the drive to Jaipur.  Entire families were on the road on their way to visit with friends although our driver explained that colour throwing and serious drinking would be well underway by 8:00 a.m. 

Fruit seller proudly poses to
show off his Holi colour

Still in darkness, the bumps in the road came up on us unexpectedly.  Now and again we spotted the orange flames rising from a tandoor oven and villagers brewing their chai, huddling around open fires.  It was cool and everyone was shrouded in blankets, including the toll booth attendants who took our money stoicly, their expressionless eyes staring at us hard from behind tightly wrapped head coverings.

We passed our first half built Holi road block without incident - its custodians were not ready for the onslaught.  A few miles down the road we were not so lucky.  Half a dozen children enthusiastically guarded their barricade of stones and tree branches demanding money before they would let us pass.  Our driver bargained with the ringleader bringing the “ransom” down from a 100 to 20 rupees - about twenty five cents.  

Kemal Mahal heritage suite -
could get used to this

We arrived at the magnificent Rambagh Palace Hotel shortly after 6:30 a.m. to a rose petal shower, sweet smelling garlands and bindis on the forehead.  An hour later we were installed in probably the most beautiful hotel room we have ever stayed in.  

About to ride in style

Cappuccino on the veranda in decadently upholstered rattan furniture overlooking the colourful gardens and strutting peacocks was such a treat.  

A drive in the Maharajah’s 1936 Ford convertible around the palace grounds ended a perfect - and colour free - day.

Behind the wheel