Steamy, Rhythmic Parintins

Sea Scout salutes in welcome

What better way to end our time in Brazil than by visiting Parintins, a vibrant town on the forested island group of Tupinambarana, our final stop on the Amazon River before turning out to sea and north to Devil’s Island in French Guyana.

We were welcomed by the town’s sea scouts, who directed us, smiled broadly and saluted importantly as they posed for photographs. 

The humidity hit like us like a brick as we stepped ashore.

Colourful kiosks

The townspeople had set up kiosks near the harbour with beautiful hand-crafted jewellery, wooden boxes and showy feathered headdresses.

The latter was significant.

Decorated buildings showcasing
the annual Boi Bumba festival 

During the summer months Parintins hosts a spectacular Boi Bumba festival and the town becomes a magnet for surrounding communities as far away as Manaus, 420 kilometres away. 

The festival is rooted in an 86 year rivalry between two groups - the Garantido and the Caprichoso - and this rivalry is intense.

The Boi Bumba Stadium

The costumes are exotic and showy, with the event taking place in a 35,000 seat stadium, a rival to Rio’s Carnival - a Boi Bumbadrome perhaps?

Despite the intense heat and humidity we managed to see all the sites - thanks to the enterprising pedicab drivers who waited at the pier with their covered conveyances.  Our driver drove us all through town, past the local school whose blue-uniformed students waved as we passed. 

Colourful Churchyard

On to the Cathedral Nossa Senhora de Carmo and its impressive churchyard.  I mention this with care.  Despite being a final resting place, each tomb is brightly decorated with real and artificial flowers, giving it a feeling of Carnival.  The dead are certainly not forgotten.

Parintins Pedicab

We felt sorry for our cyclist though.  He was a small man.  At times we felt as though we should have helped him push his load up the many inclines of Parintins, although we did cling together a little tightly on the downhill as the rickety pedicab lurched and shuddered over the town‘s open storm drains. 

Nevertheless, passing decorated homes and businesses, it was clear Parintins is a vibrant town that revolves around the annual Boi Bumba festival.

Preparing for a mini Boi Bumba Show

And what a pleasure to at least imagine being part of the parade in June when the throngs bedecked in skimpy costumes adorned with colourful feathers, move rhythmically through the streets, the feathers providing at least some relief from the relentless Brazilian humidity.