Is this the bus to Cartagena?

The Roman catacombs of Cartagena

The cloud cover told the story.  Before long the raindrops began to fall, continuing throughout our stay in Cartagena, Spain. A shame because there was so much to see.

Remnants of the ancient
walled city of Cartagena

Cartagena is a city with a long history.  Hannibal and his elephants arriving from North Africa made their trek from here to the Roman Empire. Battles between the Carthaginians and Romans for control over this uniquely positioned port. And years later, the quest for silver and lead. 

The vista - amazing with all its historical influences.  The weather - appalling. 

In spite of this, we were in the company of Trini, a Spanish guide as knowledgeable as she was enthusiastic.  When some of our party decided to call it a day she encouraged the rest of us to accompany her to the highest of the five hilltops that had once anchored Cartagena’s city walls. 

Aromas of coffee, chocolate
and paella

And delicious hams

But first we took refuge from the deluge in a bustling café, enjoying a cappuccino with new friends. 

We watched the waiters who positively floated throughout the restaurant serving coffee, drinks, desserts and home made paella from a massive copper pan positioned next to enormous legs of ham secured to the marble counter tops.

 

The rain continued to fall but we were safe in the company of Trini.  Wetter than wet we climbed to the highest peak, viewing the abandoned bull ring below.  

From the hilltop we took in the city panorama - the highlight - a Roman amphitheatre, only discovered in the 1980s. The eclectic architecture from various ages was truly amazing - the impact of the Arabs, Carthaginians and Romans along with the mining entrepreneurs of the 19^th and 20^th centuries blending together to create a rich cultural heritage.

Newly discovered Roman amphitheatre - the 
soggy climb well worth the effort 

Trini had tied it all together for us.  The rain did not bother her one jot.  Her long hair, now soaked - she had relinquished her umbrella to one of our group.  She just seemed appreciative that we were still there but we were hanging on to her every word.

Trini reminded us that being a good tour guide is always about giving the people a good time.  She was brilliant - and what an inspiration!

Granada - I'm falling under your spell

Stunning views over The Alhambra

The drive from Malaga to Granada traces its way through spectacular mountain scenery - craggy peaks, winding rivers, endless rows of olive trees contrasted by the intense green of winter wheat.  

Tall Bergamot orange trees stand stately in copses and in the distance snow caps the highest peaks of the Sierra Nevada range. 

One of numerous intricately
decorated interiors

This part of Andalusia is steeped in history, influenced over time by the Phoenicians, the Romans, the Carthaginians, the Moors and the Arabs - and of course providing the setting for all those Clint Eastwood spaghetti westerns.

One of The Alhambra's 
many gardens 

We were on our way to Granada and The Alhambra, the iconic “red one”.  

The complex dates back over 800 years and started life as an Islamic fortress later reinvented by Isabella and Ferdinand in the 1400s when Catholics replaced Arabs as the governing force.  

As with all cultures, The Alhambra eventually fell into disrepair and several centuries after Isabella and Ferdinand it was “rediscovered” and has been undergoing continual restoration.  Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site The Alhambra is one of Spain’s top tourist attractions - and we were to appreciate just why.

Centrepiece of the Court of the Lions

The grounds are sprawling with palaces, mosques (that became churches) and extensive gardens and water features. 

Not to be missed is the Court of the Lions, only fully restored three months ago to its original glory with all its water features in full working order.

The views over The Alhambra’s buildings and gardens, with Granada and its mountains beyond, is picture perfect. Was it my imagination, or could I actually hear back in my subconscious the melody of “Granada, I’m falling under your spell”?

Here's looking at you kid

Sunset over the towering minaret
of the Hassan II mosque

Sadly, there's nothing about the iconic movie “Casablanca” to link it to the Moroccan port city of the same name. Even the legendary Ric’s café was a Hollywood set although some enterprising woman has opened her version of the drinking hole near the dock.

Hassan II mosque

Palacial, immaculate interior
complete with retractable roof

But you don’t have to rely on Hollywood to be impressed by Casablanca. Most notably, the massive Hassan II Mosque with its towering minaret visible above the dock’s cranes from out to sea.

The mosque accommodates 25,000 worshippers inside and another 80,000 outside.  Inaugurated in 1993 the mosque is exquisitely decorated in marble, gold, wood carvings and Murano glass chandeliers.  

The building also has some very modern features - electric doors, a massive retractable roof and a glass floor that allows worshippers to kneel directly over the sea.

Driving 90 miles south west from Casablanca to the port town of El Jadida another must see is the old walled city founded by the Portuguese.  Within the old town the hallmark building is a former warehouse that was converted in the 16^th century into a cistern or underground reservoir.  The underground chamber was constructed with beautiful arched pillars.  Five rows, each with five stone pillars, hold up the ceiling with a small circular opening to the sky. 

The Portuguese cistern - a watery basement lit by
 shafts of daylight becomes a photographic treasure

The cistern is popular with visitors because of the pools of water that collect on the stone floor creating magical reflections from the small portal of light above.  As the sun streams in, small shafts of light create unusual lighting and together with the incessant drips which fall into the pooled water the atmosphere is palpable. 

The basement space has been a popular location for movie sets - the most famous of which was Orson Wells’ 1952 rendition of  “Othello”. 

Back in Casablanca that evening the sun set quickly and fell from the sky like a stone, creating a magnificent backdrop of gold and orange for the impressive Hassan II mosque.

Climbing goats and ancient walls

Herd of goats tackles an Argan tree

The road from Morocco’s coastal city of Agadir to Taroudant winds across a sparsely vegetated landscape with the Atlas Mountains looming in the distance. 

Taroudant is a gem, relatively unspoiled and sometimes referred to as the grandmother of Marrakech.

Goat perches high in an Argan tree

One of the few things that seems to flourish in this region are the Argan trees.  The tree produces a kernel that is harvested and processed into various products including cooking oil and cosmetics.  

Moroccan goats love these kernels too and, amazingly, have adapted themselves as climbers, scaling the trees with remarkable dexterity to reach the prize. 

Walled city of Taroudant

Taroudant is a compact, walled city and quite charming because most of its ancient ramparts are intact. Stretching for six kilometers, the well preserved wall is set with bastions and city gates.

Strolling through the narrow souks we crossed the main square, a gathering place for the local population.  Snake charmers played their shrill wind instruments tunelessly, supposedly to entice their slithering companions into action.  This was followed with angry gesticulations when pictures were taken and no reward for the show offered. 

No photos for us though.  We remembered a similar experience years ago in Marrakech. You could end up wearing the snake for non-payment if an exit strategy had not been well planned.

Colourful spices in the Berber souk

Spices, fruit, vegetables, pottery, silverware, exotic slippers and ornate lanterns provided the colour as we walked through the Berber and Arab souks - two distinctly different markets.  

Local women brought their unleavened bread dough to a communal bakery and bakers were hard at work weighing and shaping the loaves in preparation for the oven.

Argan kernels - yummy

A stop for an education on the merits of Argan oil followed, although we were reminded before seriously considering purchase of the origins of the unprocessed kernel.  

Such is the value of Argan oil every kernel is collected, included those that have passed undigested through the goat …… yikes!

The long and winding roads of Gran Canaria

Picturesque balcony garden in Teror

We arrived under overcast skies at Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.  Despite the lack of sunshine we were struck by the brightly painted, misshaped houses that, from a distance, seemed to tumble down the hillsides. 

Many were quite small and looked as though they had been constructed with Lego. Others were less modest but all had generous patio areas with beautiful plantings. 

What the buildings also had in common was intense colour - greens that ranged from olive to avocado to emerald - citrus colours of lime, lemon and grapefruit - strident red, fuscia pink, terra cotta and mustard. 

Magnificent covered wooden
balcony in Teror

We were on our way to the highest point on Gran Canaria and the communities of Teror and Arucas, all linked by a winding, narrow road with blind bends aplenty and steep drops. 

Oncoming vehicles did not slow down unless they absolutely had to, passing with barely a credit card’s width between us. 

Our Lady of the Pine Tree, Teror

In spite of its dubious name the town of Teror is charming with colourful buildings, wrought iron street lighting and magnificent wooden balconies, some of which were overflowing with vines and flowers.  

The main square is flanked by an 18^th century church dedicated to Our Lady of the Pine Tree.  The town seemed sleepy with just a few locals frequenting the open air cafes.

Church of San Juan Bautista, Arucas

Continuing on our hairpin-fraught drive we reached the community of Arucas, dominated by the towering Church of San Juan Bautista.

Known for its rum production, Arucas also has its share of brightly coloured buildings and winding volcanic cobblestone streets along which the locals drive with unbridled enthusiasm.

Spain's yellow mail boxes

The bright yellow mail box in the main square reminded us of a troublesome trivia question: What is blue in the US, red in the UK and yellow in Spain? 

Why mail boxes of course! 

High above the shutters of Mindelo

The boats were a bit like the shutters
of Mindelo, languishing with
little sign of action 

Mindelo, the capital of San Vincente Island in the Cape Verde archipelago, was as we remembered it: a sleepy, sun-drenched town with colourful buildings whose shutters reflected brightly in the sunlight. 

We passed through the town on our way to the summit of Monte Verde, the highest peak on the mountainous island. Cobbled roads soon replaced the asphalt.  Our vehicle lurched as it tackled the narrow, winding road that crawled its way up the mountainside. 

Bird's eye view of Mindelo

The drop from the road was a little harrowing especially when the next corner came into view, presenting irrefutable evidence of the erosion that has taken place over the years.  

Despite a little nervousness, we were rewarded with a panoramic view over the volcanic topography and dramatic seascape.

Atop Monte Verde

Somehow the ride back down the mountain felt faster and safer, but then our inhibitions had been dispensed with some time earlier. We continued on to Baia das Gatas (Catfish Bay) and Praia Grande where the surf positively thundered onto the sandy beaches.  

The Grogue packs a punch

We were invited to sample Grogue, the local sugarcane brew discovering that a small shot went a very long way. We didn't need the Grogue to feel invigorated from our excursion.  Back in Mindelo the town continued to sleep - barely a shutter had opened.  

Olinda, Oh My

Some of Olinda's colonial heritage

Years ago we had visited Recife, the capital of Brazil’s Pernambuco State on the “bump” of Brazil. 

The highlight that day had been our time meandering the cobblestone streets in the nearby colonial town of Olinda. 

Colourful adornments
to the clay tiled rooftops

Olinda, founded by the Portuguese in the 16^th century, is a study in attractive architecture and a profusion of red clay rooftops.  Nestled on the hillside, there are striking views over the town, Recife and the ocean beyond. 

Olinda's Cathedral

Since our first visit, Olinda has been recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.  This designation required the State to first renovate and clean up what had become a crumbling epitaph to a glorious past. 

Now returning, we barely recognized Recife, a growing city that sprawls up and out from its three rivers and 49 connecting bridges. It even sports the moniker “Brazil’s Venice”.

Recife itself is an important commercial centre and port although its sagging infrastructure underscores the cost of progress.  Despite various public works projects that appeared to be underway as well as construction of a new stadium to host 2014 World Cup soccer a monumental amount of work is required. 

200 year old Baobab tree
in Recife's central square

Recife’s colonial buildings have not been looked after, the central square is crowned by a non-functioning fountain set in a pool of stagnant water.  A 200 year old Baobab tree stands majestically in the square but seems out of place in the company of the disintegrating architecture.  The Venice of Brazil, I think not.

"Tarted up" colonial Olinda

Sadly, Olinda seems to have been frozen in time, held hostage by the touts laden with cheap souvenirs that pursued potential customers everywhere, even into the cathedral.  The old customs house has been reinvented as a crafts market.  All the hawking activity took away from the real star of the show. 

Taking a few steps away from the melee of tourism we scanned the view - and using a little bit of imagination - there it was, a mirror into the past.  Olinda, the beautiful.

Her name is Rio and she's lost amongst the clouds

Christ the Redeemer 

Sassy Rio de Janiero - sounds of the samba, the crashing surf, the high rises framed against the mountainsides, the favellas and the iconic Corcovado and Sugar Loaf - well. 

Good thing we were here years ago on a sunny day and saw Rio at her best when "she danced along the sand". Today the rain clouds hung low over the city.  It was grey and gloomy - barely a samba beat to be heard. 

No view today, Brazilian coffee instead

With 2014 World Cup Soccer and the 2016 Summer Olympics on their way to Rio we felt bemused as we drove around the city.  

The infrastructure looked bleakly inadequate, traffic barely moved and while Coca Cola has already made its branding mark on the Corcovado train station, the disinterested attitude of the folks operating the railway really made us wonder what it will take for Coke and its cohorts to infuse the appropriate FIFA/Olympic spirit.

Corcovado’s train trundled slowly up the mountain and into the clouds.  The iconic statue of Christ the Redeemer was a ghostly shadow in the mist.  Brazilian coffee helped lift our spirits before we continued on, eventually skirting Ipanema and Copacabana then taking the stunning cable car rides to the top of Sugar Loaf mountain.

The iconic Sugar Loaf cable car

By this time the misty clouds were not static, almost creating an ethereal atmosphere as we looked down over the city and its beaches.

View from atop Sugar Loaf

“Her name is Rio and she dances in the sand“, so sang Duran Duran.  Today Rio seemed lost amongst the clouds.  A city with so much resting on her shoulders as she prepares for the attention that will soon come her way.  

Hope she’s ready.

Pretty in pink - green, blue and yellow

Movie shoot amongst the cloisters

The first capital of Brazil - Salvador de Bahia - is one of the oldest and best preserved colonial cities in the Americas.  

Since its establishment 500 years ago, a modern day city has grown around the old historical centre and now Salvador ranks as Brazil’s third biggest city after Sao Paulo and Rio de Janeiro.

This is the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture, with the bulk of Salvador’s population having descended from enslaved West Africans.  

The charm of old-town Salvador

The old city or Pelourinho, has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site and is rich in Portuguese architecture and spectacularly adorned churches dating back to the 17^th century.  

The upper and lower towns are linked by (apparently non-functioning) funiculars and the impressive 19^th century Elevador Lacerda.  

Just between friends

Time to go ladies

Turbaned women in voluminous lace-trimmed dresses posed for photos (which can end up being quite expensive) but it was all very good humoured.  

The “traditionally built” ladies sashayed in groups along the cobbled streets and added their own share of atmosphere to the old town. 

After a break for a deliciously cold Brazilian beer in a sidewalk café, we branched away from the main square’s impressive collection of churches, convents and monasteries.

Colourful buildings lined the narrow street constructed of particularly uneven cobbles, winding its way down a steep incline. The view ahead was a complex collection of colour and history - a veritable 1000 piece jigsaw in the making. 

Uneven cobbles made it hard to
look up and down at the same time

We reached the end of the cobbled hillside and were brought back down to earth with a bump.The old colonial past stood behind us and we were now in the midst of the population going about the hustle and bustle of their day in the commercial centre of town.

Buzios - Brigitte's Hideaway

The golden beaches of Buzios

In her heyday, Brigitte Bardot was a sensation who was dogged by the international paparazzi.  

The “sex kitten” found her holiday escape from the spotlight, albeit temporarily, in Buzios, Brazil, a quiet fishing village blessed with numerous beautiful beaches. That is, until the paparazzi tracked her down.

Originally settled by pirates and slave traders, Buzios has the feel of the French Riviera about it, its main cobbled street, Orla Bardot, winding lazily along the oceanfront. 

The buildings that house the town’s restaurants, shops and galleries are architecturally interesting - rustic in appearance and restricted to two storeys, they are bedecked with shrubs and flowers. 

Buzios is a good shopping haunt and judging by the number of swimwear shops, evidently the place to purchase one of those revealing Brazilian bikinis. 

Brigitte would likely agree.  

A short walk along the beachfront and there she was, caste in bronze sitting on a suitcase looking out to sea, no doubt contemplating the irony of her own admission that in discovering Buzios her fame had destroyed its innocence.

In his dreams

All that seemed to be missing from her tiny hand was a Caipirinha, the local cocktail made from Cachaca, Brazil’s sugarcane rum, sugar and lime. Then she would have been ready to contemplate the sunset.

A study in contrasts

Picturesque Ilha Grande
set in the Atlantic rainforest

About a 100 miles south of Rio de Janiero the atmosphere changes:  gone are the rigors of incessant traffic and big city chaos - this is the place of golden beaches and pristine Atlantic rainforest. The island of Ilha Grande is a perfect example with its limited tourist infrastructure.

Sleepy Porto Belo surrounded
by communities of holiday homes

Further south in Brazil’s Santa Catarina state, Porto Belo has the feel of a fishing village but the surrounding landscape is one of tower blocks of holiday condos.  German immigrants once worked the land, farming sugar cane, rice and wheat.  

Today tourism fuels the economy bringing chaos to the underdeveloped infrastructure during the high season.

Impromptu welcome at
Cathedral Sao Pedro

Rio Grande de Sul is Brazil’s most southerly state and the city of Rio Grande is a busy port set in an impressive lagoon.  Its history was heavily influenced by the Jesuits and the Portuguese.  

While the city centre is dilapidated and badly in need of repair, a visit to Cathedral Sao Pedro lifted our spirits considerably.  The Father welcomed us inside his church, asked us where we were from, blessed us and continued on with the Mass he was in the middle of conducting.

Ralli Museum of Contemporary Art

In complete contrast is Uruguay’s Punta del Este,“the St. Tropez of South America”.  In fact with its gorgeous beaches, countless upscale apartments, flashy homes and eclectic restaurants it’s a world apart.  

The privately owned Ralli Museum of Contemporary Art located in the fashionable Beverly Hills neighbourhood has an impressive collection of paintings and sculptures by some of Latin America’s most talented artists as well as works by Dali and Chagall.

  

Exploring the nooks and crannies
of Casa Pueblo

Casa Pueblo perched atop Punta Ballena provides stunning views over Rio de la Plata.  Created by painter and sculptor Carlos Paez Vilaro, the unusual building which took 36 years to complete has the look and feel of something created by Gaudi.

About half of Uruguay’s population lives in the capital city of Montevideo, two hours away from Punta del Este.  The city’s architecture is testament to its colonial past although many buildings are desperately in need of refurbishment.   

Mercado del Puerto parrillas

However at Mercado del Puerto we found ourselves in a restored building of vaulted iron beams and coloured glass - urban renewal at its best.  

The market houses a number of stalls and eateries where over large fires parrillas (sausage and grilled beef of various cuts) are barbequed with red peppers, potatoes and other colourful vegetables.  The aroma of cooking meat blending with the smokey wood fires created a compelling atmosphere.

A study in contrasts indeed.