Stupas and Sandbars

Flying over the Irrawaddy River it’s hard not to be struck by the impact of the 2100 kilometer-long river and the lifeline it provides to Myanmar’s agriculture and transportation networks.

And this was the dry season – the river rises as much as twelve meters after the rains.

We travelled the 185 kilometer stretch of the river between Bagan and Mandalay during a time of the year when water levels were at their lowest.

Along the river banks people farmed wheat, corn, peanuts, rice, onions, beans and garlic on land rich from silt deposits left during the previous wet season.

At this time of the season sandbar islands have formed in the river and are home to transient workers who load their small wooden canoes with fine quality sand for use in construction. Bamboo rafts, often travelling in convoy, pass us laden with teak.


We reached the village of Mingun upriver from Mandalay to explore Mingun Pagoda which was intended to be 500 feet high when it was conceived.

Unfortunately the King died before the structure was completed and what had been constructed was severely damaged by an earthquake, practically splitting it down the middle.

Despite its dilapidated state we were required to climb it barefoot, precarious going at times, but the view over the river and surrounds was spectacular.

All the more amazing when you realize that after the rains much of the landscape will be under water.