Where The Flying Fishes Play

"On the road to Mandalay where the flyin' fishes play an' the dawn comes up like thunder outer China 'crost the Bay"

It's hard not to quote Rudyard Kipling when you find yourself about to take a memorable trip from Bagan to Mandalay on the Irrawaddy River. What a thrill to be finally here.

We had travelled up to Bagan from Heho, watched the sun set over a plain of golden pagodas and here we were on the eve of our riverboat journey having dinner under the stars on the outside patio of our hotel. Bougainvillea cascaded over a large pergola and below us tropical gardens stretched out to the banks of the river.

During the night we awoke to hear the monks from a nearby monastery chanting in the distance. The chanting continued until daybreak.

Before leaving Bagan on the riverboat the next afternoon we visited the local market - the experience undoubtedly best told in pictures. You had to be there!

Thank you to the kind and generous people of Myanmar.

2011 Floating Lanterns - The Road To Mandalay

The Road To Mandalay riverboat was all but destroyed during Cyclone Nargis in 2008 - by a quirk of fate the vessel had been moved south to undergo a refit and was caught in the storm. Had it stayed in its operating locale it would have escaped the destruction.

The attention to detail during the riverboat's refurbishment was evident everywhere - a luxurious but understated vessel and a comfortable home for the next four days.

Boarding in Bagan we were treated to a personal tour of the vessel by the Hotel Manager - as luck would have it Road to Mandalay was less than half full for this sailing and we would have the run of the vessel - which lucky for us included an upgrade to a beautiful, much larger cabin than we had booked. The bathroom was beautiful with one wall a mass of thin jade tiles in various shades of pale green.

Our fellow passengers were a mix of nationalities and everyone participated in the extensive tours and activities that had been arranged with their own language guides which included temple hopping, market browsing, cooking demonstrations, longyi tying and thanat khar face marking.

Shipboard life while we lazily travelled the river from Bagan to Mandalay brought a whole new meaning to relaxation - comfortable upholstered rattan chairs under an extensive awning, teak sun loungers, beautifully presented meals on the top deck and attentive, low-key service.

The dining room on the deck below where breakfast and dinner was served was pure, understated elegance. The food was very enjoyable and one could not ask for better.

We returned to our cabin on Valentine's Day to find rose petals in the shape of hearts on the bed, complete with hand made chocolates.

One of highlights of the voyage was the "surprise on the river". We were anchored mid-stream enjoying a cocktail party on the top deck.
Upstream multicoloured lights on the water came into view, moving towards us and finally passing us with the current. All this set to beautiful music. Each light was a floating lantern and there were 2011 of them!

The Road To Mandalay riverboat was such an enjoyable experience and the gracious service provided by absolutely everyone on board underscored our entire experience in Myanmar.

Go visit - but you should go soon!

Mandalay - The Last Royal Capital

The very name Mandalay conjures up evocative images of a bygone era. The truth is that the former royal capital of Burma, now Myanmar, is a bit of a grubby town located on a wide bend in the Irrawaddy River. Nevertheless it remains a fascination.

For one, the magnificent carved teak monastery of Shwe Nandaw Kyaung, the last remaining remnant of the old Mandalay Palace destroyed during World War II bombing.

It’s still possible to get the feel of what the original palace grounds must have been like by walking the expansive moat sided walkways in the shadow of Mandalay Hill.

Kuthodaw Pagoda is another amazing site: dotted with small white pagodas housing 729 marble pillars inscribed with Buddhist scriptures - reputed to be the world’s largest book.


Directly across the river from our berth in Mandalay lies Myanmar’s spiritual capital, Sagaing. Nestled amongst the many pagodas and trees on the hillside are monasteries providing meditation centres for thousands of monks, nuns and others who come to the area to retreat. The view from the mirror-encrusted pagoda at the top of Sagaing's hill is impressive.

In Mandalay the riverboat's berth is at the village of Shwe Kyet Yet and just after daybreak one morning we walk the village's winding alleyways to watch the monks collect alms at the steps of a 12th century pagoda.

Novice monks wait patiently for their turn.

Many Myanmar boys enter a monastery by age 9 and can leave once they have learned basic scripture and Buddhist conduct. By 20 most will have left while others will choose to be ordained.

Another iconic site – and the front cover of our much used Lonely Planet guide to Myanmar - is the U Bein wooden bridge across Taungthaman Lake.

At 1.2 kilometers the bridge is reputed to be the longest teak structure of its kind in the world - and while a little rickety and uneven in places - it has served as an effective thoroughfare while withstanding the elements for 200 years.

Mandalay, evocative yet.

Stupas and Sandbars

Flying over the Irrawaddy River it’s hard not to be struck by the impact of the 2100 kilometer-long river and the lifeline it provides to Myanmar’s agriculture and transportation networks.

And this was the dry season – the river rises as much as twelve meters after the rains.

We travelled the 185 kilometer stretch of the river between Bagan and Mandalay during a time of the year when water levels were at their lowest.

Along the river banks people farmed wheat, corn, peanuts, rice, onions, beans and garlic on land rich from silt deposits left during the previous wet season.

At this time of the season sandbar islands have formed in the river and are home to transient workers who load their small wooden canoes with fine quality sand for use in construction. Bamboo rafts, often travelling in convoy, pass us laden with teak.


We reached the village of Mingun upriver from Mandalay to explore Mingun Pagoda which was intended to be 500 feet high when it was conceived.

Unfortunately the King died before the structure was completed and what had been constructed was severely damaged by an earthquake, practically splitting it down the middle.

Despite its dilapidated state we were required to climb it barefoot, precarious going at times, but the view over the river and surrounds was spectacular.

All the more amazing when you realize that after the rains much of the landscape will be under water.

Chaukhtatgyi Paya - Taking It Lying Down

We spent our last morning in Yangon walking the meandering wooden boardwalk of Kandawgyi Lake, the stupa of Shwedagon Paya visible in the distance and providing a mirror image in the lake water. It was hot.


At the far end of the lake a Disneyland-like structure dominates. Karaweik is a concrete reproduction of a royal barge and serves as a venue for traditional dance.

A short drive away and on to one of Myanmar's most beautiful reclining buddhas.

The tranquil face of Chaukhtatgyi tops an enormous structure housed in a hanger-style building to protect its diamond encrusted head and golden robes from the elements.

At the buddha's feet there is a small shrine to Ma Thay, a monk with the power to stop rain and grant a safe journey to sailors.

Before making our way to Yangon airport for the short flight to Heho we made one final visit to the eastern side of Shwedagon Paya - it does tend to draw one back. We strolled through the surrounding streets and their stalls selling flowers, Buddhist robes and accessories --- all the paraphernalia associated with a serious visit to the temple.

We enjoyed fresh papaya smoothies with San at an open air restaurant overlooking Kandawgyi Lake before leaving Yangon.

The venue was heavily promoting its upcoming Valentine’s Day menu – Surf and Tuft – alarming for the poor rabbit being the Year of the Rabbit claims to embody peace and tranquility!

Shwedagon Paya - Pure Eye Candy

The 2500 year old Shwedagon Paya is a source of Burmese pride and the most sacred Buddhist site in Myanmar. It is without a doubt the highlight of any visit to Yangon.

The ideal time to visit is towards the end of the day before sunset when the colour from the setting sun seems to bathe the structure in ever changing light while precious stones sparkle and glint.

The Stupa is visible from just about anywhere on the Yangon landscape. Six tons of gold form the 300 foot dome which is bedecked with precious stones, culminating with a 70 carat diamond at the peak.

Just how $300 Million worth of gold ended up gilding the sides of this Stupa is a combination of both fact and legend.

The story goes that the tradition began in the 15th century when the Queen gifted her own weight in gold to Shwedagon. Not to be outdone, subsequent rulers did the same thing, increasing the amount of gold in their donation.

Over time Shwedagon Paya has survived damage from earthquakes, fire and raids from Colonial forces but despite this, the site remains magnificent and awe inspiring. It is always crowded and towards dusk an army of volunteers travel in a long line with brooms to sweep the marble walkways.

Shwedagon Paya takes time to explore and should not be rushed.

Sit awhile on one of the marble steps and enjoy the goings on - the people watching aspect alone is second to none.

We were rewarded by a chance visit with some non-Yangon residents, their first time at Shwedagon Paya too.