Sunday, February 27, 2011

Walking With Elephants

On arrival at the Maetaman Elephant Camp north of Chaing Mai, a large sign warns

“Our elephant camp is not allowed the child below 1 year, unability person and pregnant woman to do any program. But if they are really want to do, we will not response in any cases for all damages.” [sic]

Despite what was going to be a day of pure tourism, riding elephants through the jungle and rafting on the river, one couldn’t help but be struck by the gentleness, intelligence and sure-footedness of these gorgeous mammals as we walked amongst them in the early morning sun, receiving an immediate response to the stroking of a trunk or the patting of an ear.


Smaller than its African cousin, the Asian Elephant has a dual dome bone structure on its head and is grey-brown in colour, sometimes with pink skin blotches around the face. Its hair is thin and wiry to the touch.

Watching the elephants and their babies cavort in the river, lying on their sides as the mahouts scrubbed and tickled, or gushing water through dexterous trunks in our general direction – this was just the beginning as we ventured off in an ox cart to the meeting point with our mahout.

On the way we chatted with a farmer working in his field. He worked feverously in the hot sun, pulling weeds away from new green shoots that poked through the milky chocolate-coloured soil. Elephant dung was being spread on an adjoining field to dry in the sun.

The mahout spoke no English but wore a permanent smile that betrayed a raft of missing teeth and a face full of deep crevices carved by his positive demeanour. Helping us aboard, the four of us ambled forward along a jungle trail, crossing the river in several places.

Such marvellous dexterity as he gently climbed down muddy banks or up steep, stony inclines.

He knew the drill well and that we were laden down with snacks of sugar cane and bananas.

Periodically a trunk would appear over his head, finding its way to our laps indicating that now would seem an appropriate time for a “yum yum” moment.

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