The Rooftops of Dubrovnik

In another life, summertime on Lake Muskoka was dull when it rained. The jigsaw puzzles would come out on a card table set up in the brightest part of the cottage overlooking a rain drenched dock.

Many hours were spent one rainy August weekend trying to solve the puzzle of Dubrovnik’s clay tiled roofs.

It was challenging - the colour hue was narrow, ranging from golden brown to pinkish red at its most extreme with the majority of pieces seeming to be a roof tile. There were sighs of joy when a piece of shutter or limestone somehow fit into the developing picture of those red rooftops.

Who would have imagined years later we would be standing on Dubrovnik’s massive stone ramparts overlooking those very roofs and the fairy tale city below.

The city walls were constructed during the 13th century and later reinforced with towers. Dubrovnik is a UNESCO World Heritage Site but during the recent independence war, the city came under heavy siege and a great deal of damage resulted. A restoration project followed and few signs remain of the damage although shrapnel is still visible in the walls of one of the city’s beautiful churches.

We began our day - a bright, crisp morning - walking the picturesque palm-lined waterfront of the nearby fishing village of Cavtat. The bura and jugo winds are a phenomenon in this part of Croatia, and this morning's icy blast had the effect of cutting easily through our various layers of clothing.

We drove south to within six miles of the Montenegro border - gathering at a riverside restaurant for samples of the local cheese and smoked ham, served with liberal quantities of wine. The restaurant had a festive atmosphere with waitresses dressed in National costume against the sound of the fast flowing river, rushing hurriedly over the rocky banks.

On our return to the old town of Dubrovnik we wandered the parallel streets that flowed into the central marketplace but we were anxious to walk the city walls. We were not disappointed as we laboured up the uneven steps to the highest part of the wall.

The view was glorious and with the sunshine replacing the wind, the colours of the city intensified, framed by a sparkling seascape.