Sonora Diary

The promotional materials on Sonora Resort simply don’t do it justice.  You have the image firmly fixed in your mind in anticipation but as the helicopter swoops into Sonora bay it’s hard not to succumb to a little jaw dropping. 

Preparing to leave Avitat

The daily helicopter flight leaves the South Terminal at YVR mid-afternoon and 45 minutes later, after passing territory you thought you felt thoroughly familiar with, the Resort, perched on the tip of Sonora Island comes into view. 

Arrival at Sonora Resort

We arrived well into British Columbia’s Fall season, a little chancy perhaps.    However this year the weather gods had doled out the rain harvest differently.  June had been cold, wet and miserable while September had proven to be positively summer-like.

And so it was, in shirt sleeves we boarded the helicopter, passing over the main terminal of Vancouver airport.  The helicopter’s rotor blades whooped powerfully and before long we were passing over one of the arms of the Fraser River, which seemed to be gorging on the endless rows of freshly harvested timber, neatly lined up with a sort of military precision.  After a full frontal view of Wreck Beach (is it really true they do naked yoga on that beach or is it a rumour spread by my wicked husband?) we were over the ocean speeding our way up the Sunshine Coast.  The day was so magnificent I kept wondering could Norway and its fiord lands be more impressive.  The sunlight sparkled over the forests, the rocky outcrops and the endless ocean. 

And then with a certain panache, our sky gods brought the helicopter onto Sonora’s landing pad but before doing so ensured that all on board had a first class view of what was below.  The late afternoon sunlight intensified the colours - a colony of harbour seals positively glowed golden as they wallowed on the rocks across from the dock. 

Steller sea lion downs a salmon whole

Our room in Gillard Lodge was beyond comfortable with a striking view over the waterfront and the mountains beyond.  We were instantly struck by the natural tidal phenomenon - racing tides that trade direction every six hours or so.  High or low tide forces the seawater between the narrow bays creating an unusual illusion.  It’s as though one is sitting on a river bank watching the rapid flow of water, or perhaps on a cruise ship passing through a fiord or two.  But then, maybe that’s the wine talking as we lingered over dinner.  Our naturalist called the ebb and flow “the respiration of the ecosystem".

And speaking of the delights of the restaurant, well where to begin.  The food and service is sensational - that first night - heirloom tomatoes with a basil sauce, squid infused pasta and rack of lamb, all accompanied by the Mission Hill house wine.

The stars of the dining room

The restaurant is casually laid out with an interesting fish tank dividing a grouping of tables for two from larger tables.  We were fascinated by the star fish in the tank.  You’d be amazed how fast they move.  A few bites of lamb and Mr. Starfish on the left was now over on the right making moves on what we had to assume was Mrs. Starfish.  Such unexpected cabaret. The truth is the contents of the aquarium are caught from the dock and repatriated every few weeks.  Herbert the crab and his starfish friends having had their Sonora experience watching the diners will be back in the wild before they know it.

Pacific white sided dolphin

The next morning we set off via zodiac to Blind Channel for an eco walk through an ancient cedar forest.  The weather was overcast with low hanging cloud making the colour palette complex and earthy. A lone eagle perched majestically on a rotting tree root, seals thrashed in the surf created by the fast moving tide.  Sea lions rested on the shoreline while dolphins toyed with us, playing in the wake of the zodiac as it cut a path through the water.

Moody and misty off Blind Channel

All around us the tree line covered the rocky landscape, high tide line clearly visible against the rocks.  The ice age had carved the ancient granite rock face with the forests taking root in the shallow vegetation that eventually resulted.  Wispy clouds hung low creating shadows that reflected ethereally in the water.  Despite the occasional fish farm and logging activity there was a feeling of utter peace and calm, even though the rain was now falling steadily.  Perhaps it was Fall after all.

Western red cedar

Turning into Blind Channel we had reached our destination, a soaked sorry mess of humanity piled out of the zodiac on to the dock.  No matter, we rallied and spent the next hour walking through the rain forest, the winding trail etched with exposed tree roots but soft underfoot from pine needles and other organic debris.  The giant western red cedars along the way were awe inspiring in the extreme, their girth enormous, their ageless forms a silent testament to what this place must have been like before humanity discovered it.

Back on the zodiac we realized we had never previously truly known the feeling of what it was like to be soaked right through.  Half an hour later we were back on Sonora’s dock, their thoughtful staff armed with hot chocolate and Bailey’s to ward off the chills. A short while later we were back in the dining room savouring the morning’s experiences and the incredible flavours of lunch while watching the tidal flow change direction yet again.  The bottomless wine glass appeared from nowhere, how does that keep happening I asked myself. 

Our damp clothes, now dry had been taken care of by the housekeeping staff and returned to our room.  A few hours relaxing in the lounge outside our room with its luxurious sofas, enormous fireplace and picturesque views of the waterfront and then what?  The Spa of course. 

Spectacular sunrise

The chef’s tasting menu with wine pairings that evening proved to be one of those supremo “bon appetit” events not to be missed.  Imaginative food presentation, glorious wines and champagne served with an experienced flourish.

The next day was sunny and provided another opportunity to go out on the water.  The sun was welcome as we left the dock, Steller sea lions were fishing for salmon and doing a very good job of it.  As they thrashed the salmon on the water, birds descended in flocks looking for a piece of the action.  The sea lions were deft at positioning the salmon head down in their gaping mouths, swallowing what was left in one swift motion. 

Frenzied Pacific white sided dolphin

Traversing the rapids as the coastal tides converged we came across an unusual sight - the water was positively boiling with activity as a large number of Pacific white-sided dolphin rapidly porpoised through the water.  They appeared frenzied as though spooked by a predator.  We wondered whether it was their fear of the transient killer whales that had been sighted several miles up wind.  

Transient Orca dives

 Orca circle the bay

We motored on to see if we could find them, eventually spotting them spouting in the distance.  And what a show they put on.  They seemed to be bemused by the changing tide, swimming in circles around Chatham Point lighthouse before continuing on through Johnstone Strait.  Seals bobbed their heads above water, hopefully  aware they were in imminent danger.  Most of the whales were young although one enormous whale breached, splashing the water with spectacular force. 

As if things couldn’t have been more impressive, the next morning we set off up Bute Inlet to hopefully view grizzly bear feasting on spawning salmon in the Orford River.  Despite the deep rose sunrise the skies had become overcast.  The aquamarine glacial water of the Orford River bubbling furiously as it passed over its rocky bed.  Juvenile eagles soared in pairs, swooping low over the river, but no sign of a grizzly bear.  One had been spotted but it soon disappeared into the undergrowth.  We continued on, observing a grizzly bear’s day bed, a large indentation on the forest floor suitable for an afternoon nap, but still no sighting.

We arrived at another viewing area where a meandering stream fed the Orford River,  This was the place!  We were dazzled by two male grizzly bear hunting in the water for salmon.  The dying salmon that had returned to spawn were quietly going about their business of depositing their eggs in the river gravel. 

In search of salmon

Yikes, I think he smells us!

Another bear waded into the river and lay on his side while he floated downstream in the current.  On the far bank a female and her two cubs walked the river bank, balancing on fallen logs.  Mother bear produced a half eaten salmon, tossing her head as if to tease her cubs. A large male strode confidently towards us, swaying his head as he sniffed in the air.  Suddenly he stopped, knee deep in water and fixed his gaze on the flowing water.  Leaping into the water he emerged with a large salmon in his mouth.  Another National Geographic moment.

Back at Sonora one final lunch:  for me it had been the same lunch for the past three days, so delicious I could not pass it up.  Tagiolini Scoglio - linguine type pasta with spot prawns, scallops, mussels, clams and garlic.  And of course, the obligatory glass of pinot grigio.  I hear the Sonora Burger was pretty amazing too, but I could not tear myself away from my seafood fix.

As the helicopter lifted from Sonora for the return flight to Vancouver we felt blessed.  It had been an indescribable three days with luxury and nature at one.