Dark Chocolate Is Good For You

While Cote d'Ivoire is reputed to be the world's largest exporter of cocoa beans, Ghanaians are quick to remind you that they too have held that title, but that their cocoa beans are of much higher quality.

Doug remembers going to the Cadbury's plant in Wallasey as a schoolboy on an educational tour and watching an old film that showed a derelict freighter being loaded in Ghana with large sacks of cocoa beans from dugout canoes hitched alongside. The cocoa was bound for processing in England. When the wind blew in the right direction the fragrant smell of chocolate from the Cadbury factory would waft into the house.

So here we were in Ghana - the port of Takoradi a much more modern facility that what that old movie had depicted. Today we were off on an adventure to the Kakum National Park and the Canopy Walkway, several hours drive from Takoradi which has the unusual honour of being the world's largest city closest to the Equator and the Prime Meridian - making it the most centrally located city in the world.

Takoradi and its deep water seaport is twinned with Sekondi, which combined, make the conurbation Ghana's fourth largest city and a vibrant industrial and commercial centre.

The drive revealed life. Homes were constructed in a ramshackle fashion with daily trading taking place at the roadside. We saw many interesting vendors - "Talent Mechanics" being one - and surely very popular given all the broken down vehicles we encountered during the day. "Wise Choice Financial Services" was another one that caught our eye - particularly since its signage announced that "it was opening soon". And who could not shop at the "God is Good Grocery Store"!

Nowhere in Africa has the impact of communications technology struck us quite so strongly. Vodaphone, MTN and Tico being the most common. Cellphone companies and Internet providers use the same tactic to promote their product. A homeowner or landlord is contacted and offered a contract which results in the home being painted in the enterprise's corporate colours.

First of all we thought all these colourful buildings were commercial outlets, but soon realized there were far too many of them for that to be the case. Vodaphone red was the most prevalent, standing out amongst the dreary collection of shacks and corrugated tin roofs.

Arriving at the Kakum National Park we were outnumbered by schoolchildren, there to walk the canopy. A fairly steep climb up uneven stone paved steps carved its way through the forest.

Butterflies flew around us and there was a cacophony of sound from the undergrowth. The sky was hidden but large rain droplets started to fall, stopping as soon as they had begun. Before long the sun had returned and the temperature soared.

Arriving at the canopy platform we saw the first of seven rope suspension bridges spanning the trees.

The walkway was nothing more than a series of planks attached to steel ladders suspended by rope netting.

It was higher than I had expected and looking down was something one did sparingly - we took the advice to look ahead to the end of the ropeway!

At the fifth landing we met a Ghanaian who told us the walkway had been built with the assistance of Canadians and that in his words "Canadians are very fine people".

We always travel with maple leaf pins and took the opportunity to make him an honorary Canadian. He smiled broadly revealing a number of missing teeth. He shook our hands, his chocolate coloured skin glistening in the humidity.

There were still two more stretches of swinging walkways to maneuver and we were glad when we eventually stepped foot on terra firma.

This was no Capilano Suspension Bridge, but our day in the Kakum will provide great material when we do our next North Shore tour.



When we returned to the port we could see large quantities of cocoa beans stacked ready for their journey to one of the world's processing plants. Its good news that the experts have determined that dark chocolate is good for you - that means a continuing supply of high quality beans from Ghana to the rest of the world.

From Togo's Beaches to the Premier League

When we were in Cape Town earlier on our trip, we enjoyed talking to the locals about the upcoming June FIFA World Cup in South Africa. We asked which was the best African team in the competition and the word on the street was Cameroon. I hadn't realized that most African players worth their salt play in the various elite European soccer leagues.

Fast forward to Togo. We had driven from the port city of Lome for a day out in the countryside to visit a bush school and a rural mountain village where we were welcomed personally by the Chief - a very tall, striking man who looked quite regal and comfortable in his role as his surrounding entourage performed a welcoming ceremony involved a dubious looking brew.

On the drive from the port we travelled past miles of waterfront flanked by deep yellow sand. It was Sunday morning and the locals were enjoying various activities on the beach, the most prevalent of which was soccer. Men sported various uniforms but were playing barefoot. We were told that this is how Togo produces such great soccer players - running and kicking in the sand is like extreme training for when the game is played on grass.

As we left the beach area and drove inland through rural Togo, every now and then a soccer pitch would manifest itself between the palms and cocoa plantations. And even though the temperature was in the high 30s with sweltering humidity, it was clear the game was the thing.

Our stop at the bush school was glorious. While it was Sunday, because of our visit, the teachers had given the children Friday off, making Sunday a school day on this occasion. Imagine being greeted by all those smiling faces and big curious eyes.

The various classrooms were doing their lessons and one by one, each class burst into song. The singing was so joyous and loud, bodies swaying and hands clapping.

This joyfulness continued when later in the day we visited the mountain village.

After the Chief's greeting the music started and the dancing followed. It was loud and happy and eventually many of us joined in. The clothing was so colourful and mothers carried their babies in a unique cloth device on their backs. Many of the babies slept peacefully even though their mothers were dancing vigorously.

Today was a day that reminded us that this is why we travel. While homes were no more than huts, and conditions basic, the people seemed so happy - perhaps as much bemused by our presence as we were by theirs.

While most Togoans are Christian who retain their indiginous belief in voodoo - there was no mistaking the universal religion of soccer - colourfully reinforced by the many international team shirts worn by the children. It goes without saying that the outcome of the World Cup will be watched in Togo with great interest.

Almost Benin

Well that was a close one. After four glorious days of sailing north from Namibia skirting the borders of Angola, Cameroon, Guinea, Congo and Nigeria we docked outside Cotonou harbour, the economic capital of the Republic of Benin.

We arrived just as the sun was rising in a humid, sultry sky.

Our morning walk of the decks had become a daily routine and as we looked out towards the harbour we could see no activity. A freighter was docked at our berth and there was no sign of the pilot. What followed was a long morning for Captain Mario who assured us that he, too, had been assured that the pilot would be on his way out to us soon. Despite the assurances “soon” proved to be an open-ended word not to be taken literally.

Eventually we were informed that the freighter had engine problems and could not leave the dock. This was followed by a further update half an hour later – the freighter's engine had apparently been restarted and the pilot was on his way to guide us into the harbour. And sure enough shortly thereafter, a white-gloved, uniformed official revealed himself from the pilot launch.

Despite freighters being moved, weather was not on our side. What had started out as a steamy, equatorial morning was changing fast.

Inky black clouds on the horizon were moving in at break neck speed towards us and the lazy ocean started to be lashed by the prevailing winds.

Soon there were generous white caps and the fishing boats around us, some no more than dug outs, turned back to port. The occupants bailed out their vulnerable vessels with brightly coloured plastic buckets as the waves crashed over them.

A frustrated Captain told us dejectedly that the port had now been officially closed until the winds died down but that once the front had passed, the pilot would guide us in to tie up. We were looking forward to our adventure on Lake Nokoue where we would travel to Ganvie – a village constructed on stilts.

Eventually the seas calmed but another storm was gathering on the horizon. In this part of the world darkness arrives at 6:00 p.m. and we were running out of daylight, so the decision was made to leave Benin and head west to Togo, our next port of call.

A country which in its colonial past was known as Dahomey, and which at one time had instituted an elite female soldier corps known as the “Dahomean Amazons” would continue to remain a mystery to us – at least for now.

Grains of Namibian Sand

It’s said that the former German protectorate of Namibia is the land God made in anger because of its harsh, desolate landscapes.

I had always associated Namibia with miles of endless sand dunes – and of course - the place where Brad and Angelina camped out to await the birth of their daughter.

The twenty-mile drive from the port of Walvis Bay to Swakopmund is spectacular. The paved road is flanked on one side by towering sand dunes with the Atlantic ocean on the other. Beaches are ominously scattered with shipwrecks. And yes, our driver pointed out the Burning Shore resort where Brad and Angelina stayed.

Turning east we made our way into the Namib Desert – no place to break down. A railway runs through the Desert from South Africa into Namibia and up into Angola and is important in the transit of goods, particularly supplies required in the mining of uranium – or yellow cake.

Driving in a convoy of four-wheel drives, our leader would halt our modern day wagon train periodically to point out rock formations and plant life – one of the most unusual species being the Welwitschia, a shrub-like plant which grows just two long strap-shaped leaves continuously throughout its lifetime.

The leaves can grow to be several meters long and become gnarled and twisted from the desert winds.

The plant has a science fiction quality to it and is pollinated by unusual looking insects. It is truly amazing that it survives the arid desert conditions at all - very efficient in the way it finds nourishment, sometimes deriving moisture from coastal sea fogs.

The Namib Desert is the world’s oldest living desert with moon-like landscapes and rocky enclaves worthy of a ready-made movie set for a Cowboy and Indian ambush.

The Desert is home to the world’s largest sand dunes which can shift anywhere between 6-9 feet a year, the second largest of which – Dune 7 – we were able to explore.

Dune 7 didn’t look that foreboding but to try the vertical climb to see the view from the top is more challenging than it looks. For every two steps forward, one retreats a little as sand pours into shoes and any other available opening on one's body. Cameras are particularly vulnerable, and luckily, we had remembered to bring a plastic bag to protect the camera body as much as it could.

The wind whipped up the summit of the dune, creating a temporary mini sand storm against a brilliant blue sky. The colours were amazing, changing in intensity as the sun moved across the sky. Halfway up the dune unable to control our laughter we realized that climbing to its summit was futile so we stopped to take in the view as it stood – sweeping landscapes of golden sand, sculpted by the wind into a Dali-esque beauty.

Climbing down the Dune was abandoned – we sat on our backsides and slid down. We must have walked back on board the ship each with a bucket of sand concealed in our shoes and clothing!

Believe it or not within the starkness of the desert we arrived at a clearing that had at one time been planted with olive trees – and underneath the foliage we were refreshed with sparkling South African wine and Walvis Bay oysters in the half shell.

Sand and all, yet another memorable day.

Skies Over Africa - Cape Town Revisited

We were into the tenth hour of the overnight flight from London to Cape Town and there were signs of the coming dawn through the window.

The black sky was slowly being illuminated on the far horizon by strands of strawberry, orange and scarlet, reflecting on the aircraft's wing. It was going to be a spectacular African sunrise.

It had been eleven years since our last visit to South Africa and we were looking forward to seeing Cape Town again.

The British Airways 747 swung out over the ocean as it made its final approach and before we knew it we were on the ground making our way into the terminal building. It was 8:00 a.m. local time and we were the only incoming flight - a far cry from the organized chaos of London Heathrow where gates are not even assigned until 45 minutes prior to boarding, such is the volume of air traffic.

Several days later, as Iceland's unpronounceable volcano spewed clouds of ash into the atmosphere shutting down all European airports, we shuddered at what it must have been like at Heathrow. We were just grateful to have arrived at our destination.

Our flight was early and there was no sign of our driver, but within minutes he appeared, loading us up efficiently in his comfortable new Volvo for the drive to the hotel. We were far from our best after two overnight flights.

It was only twenty minutes away but traffic was at a standstill, such was the volume of commuters making their way into Cape Town from the townships and suburbs. The N2 is a major highway and we were a little unnerved to read several days later that car muggings on the highway have become a problem......

We arrived at our Victoria and Alfred waterfront hotel to a warm welcome. Even though it was now 9:30 a.m. our room was ready. The view from our room over the harbour and Table Mountain was picture perfect.

The V&A hotel is a converted warehouse that was originally used as a storage and customs facility by the Union Castle Steamship company out of Liverpool - now beautifully restored to showcase its original architectural features. We spent the next two days enjoying the waterfont, its shops and outdoor restaurants.

Seven Seas Voyager was scheduled to arrive the next afternoon - and what a beautiful sight it was to see its bow sliding silently into the harbour. Everyone standing on the waterfront paused to watch the spectacle.

After boarding the next afternoon, we spent a further day in Cape Town at dock before setting sail for Walvis Bay, Namibia.

Happy to have been able to visit Robben Island and the winelands of Paarl, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek during our brief stay, we settled on our balcony with champagne in hand as Voyager slipped her moorings.

The setting sun coloured the sky over Table Mountain and Cape Town's new waterfront soccer stadium which will host one of the World Cup's semi-finals in June.

And "oh the thrill" as yet another adventure begins!